One of the great ticks in the Peak which reaches positions that other E1s don't - an amazing outing. Apart from one hard pull at the start of pitch 2, it is never desperate, but it is pumpy and committing. Retreat from the nose is problematical so take your prusiks if you are nervous. For this reason it makes it a poor route for an inexperienced second.
1) 4c, 25m. Climb up and right across the buttress to a comfortable ledge on the right of the main roofs.
2) 5b, 25m. Move left and make a powerful couple of pulls over the roof. Climb up left to a breather on a pedestal, then surge up and left again on big holds, with increasingly brain-jellying exposure, to reach the very edge of the world. A hard pull gains a bridged rest (at last) in the final groove - amble up this with a grin as wide as the valley. © Rockfax
FA. R.Dearman, R.Brown (aid) 20.12.64. FFA. Unknown 20/Dec/1964.
Hard Rock, Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50, Classic Peak Limestone Trad - VDiff to E2, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, The Peak: Past and Present, World Graded List, Peak Rock/10/White Life, Ultimate E1 ticklist, Tom Ripley's Top 5 E1 Climbs, Low grade quality Cheedale Trad, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Definitive *** Peak Lime, On Peak Rock, Hard Rock 2020, Hard Rock 2020
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