Rockfax Description
One of the great ticks in the Peak which reaches positions that other E1s don't - an amazing outing. Apart from one hard pull at the start of pitch 2, it is never desperate, but it is pumpy and committing. Retreat from the nose is problematical so take your prusiks if you are nervous. For this reason it makes it a poor route for an inexperienced second.
1) 4c, 25m. Climb up and right across the buttress to a comfortable ledge on the right of the main roofs.
2) 5b, 25m. Move left and make a powerful couple of pulls over the roof. Climb up left to a breather on a pedestal, then surge up and left again on big holds, with increasingly brain-jellying exposure, to reach the very edge of the world. A hard pull gains a bridged rest (at last) in the final groove - amble up this with a grin as wide as the valley. © Rockfax
FA. R.Dearman, R.Brown (aid) 20.12.64. FFA. Unknown 20/Dec/1964.
Ticklists
Hard Rock , Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , Classic Peak Limestone Trad - VDiff to E2 , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , The Peak: Past and Present , World Graded List , Peak Rock/10/White Life , Ultimate E1 ticklist , Tom Ripley's Top 5 E1 Climbs , Low grade quality Cheedale Trad , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Chris H's 100 Mega Classic Trad , Definitive *** Peak Lime , On Peak Rock , Hard Rock 2020 , Hard Rock 2020 , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs , Preparation for the Resurrection
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Will Mortimer | 28 Sep, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Belay tree looks dead. We decended by walking rightwards (left if you look out) for roughly 30m until it was easy enough to top out up to the main footpath (some bush whacking required). This adds five mins of walking but is much safer than abbing on the suspect tree. | βeta? |
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Show beta
βeta: Belay tree looks dead. We decended by walking rightwards (left if you look out) for roughly 30m until it was easy enough to top out up to the main footpath (some bush whacking required). This adds five mins of walking but is much safer than abbing on the suspect tree. |
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| orangesmartie61 | 26 Jul, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: The belay tree, right of the final groove, is dying but currently has some green leaves and was sound enough for my abseil adverse partner; takes you straight down to the gear up area so watch for loose rocks. | βeta? |
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Show beta
βeta: The belay tree, right of the final groove, is dying but currently has some green leaves and was sound enough for my abseil adverse partner; takes you straight down to the gear up area so watch for loose rocks. |
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| tom_lewis89 | 15 Jul, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Due to the main ab tree being dead we moved climbers right (leftwards if looking out) across from the top to another tree and managed an ab down to the first belay. (quite bush-wacky). wasn't sure on how to walk off and rockfax suggested abbing was better - both seemed like quite bad options. | βeta? |
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Show beta
βeta: Due to the main ab tree being dead we moved climbers right (leftwards if looking out) across from the top to another tree and managed an ab down to the first belay. (quite bush-wacky). wasn't sure on how to walk off and rockfax suggested abbing was better - both seemed like quite bad options. |
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| Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing | 4 Mar, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: WARNING: THE TREE YOU USE TO BELAY/ABSEIL OFF IS SUFFERING FROM ASH DIEBACK. It is highly recommended that you walk-off. | βeta? |
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Show beta
βeta: WARNING: THE TREE YOU USE TO BELAY/ABSEIL OFF IS SUFFERING FROM ASH DIEBACK. It is highly recommended that you walk-off. |
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| johnny87 | 7 Sep, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: If there's a good Samaritan, in-situ thread quite fluffy and frayed at start of P2. Fiddly to replace, but probably easiest hanging from the very shiny peg above, or if you're a lank. Didn't have any cord with me on the day. | βeta? |
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Show beta
βeta: If there's a good Samaritan, in-situ thread quite fluffy and frayed at start of P2. Fiddly to replace, but probably easiest hanging from the very shiny peg above, or if you're a lank. Didn't have any cord with me on the day. |
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| iainJ | 13 Jul, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: A 60m rope is adequate, but would recommend halves to save having to do two abs (second hanging from the chain in middle of p2) and barley enough to lead second pitch on one doubled over. Peg at start of p2 is rotten, as is cord. Holds inc. Jugs off legde very loose. Rock across entire pitch questionable at best. Four stars. | βeta? |
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Show beta
βeta: A 60m rope is adequate, but would recommend halves to save having to do two abs (second hanging from the chain in middle of p2) and barley enough to lead second pitch on one doubled over. Peg at start of p2 is rotten, as is cord. Holds inc. Jugs off legde very loose. Rock across entire pitch questionable at best. Four stars. |
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| Paul Evans | 9 Aug, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Completely wonderful. Yep, 4 stars. Whatever is holding the big pillar on hasn't let go yet. Some in-situ pegs with tat, and at present the thread is in place, though the tat on that looks a little old. | βeta? |
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Show beta
βeta: Completely wonderful. Yep, 4 stars. Whatever is holding the big pillar on hasn't let go yet. Some in-situ pegs with tat, and at present the thread is in place, though the tat on that looks a little old. |
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| John Alcock | 31 May, 2005 |
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βeta: 4 stars definitely. An all time classic. The move off the belay ledge is 5c and a bitch for the short. | βeta? |
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Show beta
βeta: 4 stars definitely. An all time classic. The move off the belay ledge is 5c and a bitch for the short. |
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| Gripped | 3 May, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: So much fun I’m surprised it hasn’t been made illegal! Exposed, but never really difficult at any point. Jugs and good feet all the way. | βeta? |
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Show beta
βeta: So much fun I’m surprised it hasn’t been made illegal! Exposed, but never really difficult at any point. Jugs and good feet all the way. |
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| Adam Lincoln | 8 Dec, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: What a hero | βeta? |
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Show beta
βeta: What a hero |
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| MNA123 | 8 Dec, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: i don't advice trying to climb this after 12hrs of drinking and only 3 hrs sleep the day before.I proper bottled it and ended up climbing a dirty gully to the right.It's all good fun. | βeta? |
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Show beta
βeta: i don't advice trying to climb this after 12hrs of drinking and only 3 hrs sleep the day before.I proper bottled it and ended up climbing a dirty gully to the right.It's all good fun. |
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| The Pylon King | 3 Sep, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Simply F**king Brilliant (SFB for short) | βeta? |
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Show beta
βeta: Simply F**king Brilliant (SFB for short) |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Chee Dale Upper
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Dead Banana Crack
Grade: E1 5c ***(Stoney Middleton)