Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:
Blackwell Halt
This compact wall has a good set of mid-grade routes. The setting is pleasant and there is plenty of picnic potential at the base. The wall faces south although the lower section is in the shade of the trees. There is little seepage and it is well sheltered from the wind.
Approach - From the Monsal Trail on the Chee Dale Upper Approach, head down towards the cafe/cycle hire. Cross the bridge and turn sharply left at the cottages to follow a small path along the edge of the river past a pump house. This leads to a tunnel under the train tracks. On leaving the tunnel, cross the fence on the left and go up some hidden stone steps. From here a path leads up into the grassy field below the quarry.
Access - The new landowner of Blackwell Halt is working towards being able to give permission for climbers to access the site but is not currently able to do so. If you do decide to visit, be aware you may be asked to leave - please be polite and courteous at all times.
Rockfax Description
The sport version of The Big Plum is bolted from the roof upwards, finishing rightwards up the final section of The Spider. To make it a full sport route use the bolted start of Mrs Brown. Take care on the upper section - some loose rock here. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The sport version of Big Plum is bolted from the roof upwards,
finishing rightwards up the final section of The Spider. To make
it a full sport route use the bolted start of The Spider (long
draws required) However the rope drag may prove unbearable. The best option is to put ethics aside and have a super high pre-clipped runner ie top rope the origanal 1st pitch (VS) off the fixed gear in the roof.
Take care on the upper section - some loose
rock here.
Mark Pretty 2011.
Peak limestone north graded list - sport
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Grade: 7c ***
(Chee Dale Lower)