Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:
Blackwell Halt
This compact wall has a good set of mid-grade routes. The setting is pleasant and there is plenty of picnic potential at the base. The wall faces south although the lower section is in the shade of the trees. There is little seepage and it is well sheltered from the wind.
Approach - From the Monsal Trail on the Chee Dale Upper Approach, head down towards the cafe/cycle hire. Cross the bridge and turn sharply left at the cottages to follow a small path along the edge of the river past a pump house. This leads to a tunnel under the train tracks. On leaving the tunnel, cross the fence on the left and go up some hidden stone steps. From here a path leads up into the grassy field below the quarry.
Access - The new landowner of Blackwell Halt is working towards being able to give permission for climbers to access the site but is not currently able to do so. If you do decide to visit, be aware you may be asked to leave - please be polite and courteous at all times.
Rockfax Description
A superbly exposed trip through unbelievable territory at the grade. The grade reflects the overall sustained nature of the route rather than the protection, which is more than adequate. There are a number of variations, including an extended start from over on the left and an independent finish, but none are as good as this particular combination.
1) 4c, 25m. Climb all of The Stalk to its belay.
2) 4c, 15m. Move up and right across a grassy and slightly loose wall to belay above the roof of The Big Plumb.
3) 5a, 25m. A mega-pitch which needs a confident second. Drop down and make a wild hand-traverse of the break to a spike on Sirplum, and a hanging belay. There is plenty of fixed gear.
4) 5a, 20m. Finish up Sirplum. Originally it finished up the shallow groove further to the right - this is grassy nowadays. © Rockfax
FA. Jeff Morgan, Bob Toogood 1968 FA. (Sarin) Paul Nunn, Trevor Briggs 1966.
Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2 , Peak Rock/10/White Life , Low grade quality Cheedale Trad , Weird and Wonderful , Lime trad for hobbyists , Peak Traverses
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Jhanshaw | 9 Jul |
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βeta: 2nd link pitch is a death trap. Thank god for the bolted anchors. Went too high so had to downclimb into the break under roof. From there, spectacular! Could benefit from a bolted lower off at the top of Sirplum groove. Many loose blocks above and ropes get snagged every time! | βeta? | |
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βeta: 2nd link pitch is a death trap. Thank god for the bolted anchors. Went too high so had to downclimb into the break under roof. From there, spectacular! Could benefit from a bolted lower off at the top of Sirplum groove. Many loose blocks above and ropes get snagged every time! |
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orangesmartie61 | 26 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: Climbed Stalk to the belay but bailed after scoping the next pitch. Deemed unjustifiable at the grade due to loose ivy, loose rock and general vegetation. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Climbed Stalk to the belay but bailed after scoping the next pitch. Deemed unjustifiable at the grade due to loose ivy, loose rock and general vegetation. |
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shane ohly | 21 May, 2007 |
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βeta: Fantastic climbing, brilliant route. Intimidating for E1. 3rd pitch truely mega. 4th pitch worth 5b I reckon. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic climbing, brilliant route. Intimidating for E1. 3rd pitch truely mega. 4th pitch worth 5b I reckon. |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(High Tor)