Restricted Access
Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:
- No access along the top of the dale beyond a corner formed by the wall and obvious new fence bounding the 3rd major gully east of Plum Buttress. Therefore, no access to Runyans Corner and Moving, Long, or Two-Tier Buttresses from above.
- No further bolted development on the small, vegetated, and obscure crags, which rim the dale.
- Do not leave in situ krabs or tape on bolt hangers.
- Parts of Nettle Buttress, Chee Tor East, and Dogs Dinner area are bolt free areas of outstanding appearance.
- Do not remove large swathes of ivy.
Rockfax Description
A tight line fitted in right of The Golden Mile. Start up Apocalypse. After 5m break left, then climbing up right then back left, to a ledge on The Golden Mile. Climb direct from here to the top pitch of Apocalypse. Finish up this. A long pitch. © Rockfax
FA. Mark Pretty 2010 15/Jun/2010.
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Route of Interest
Supersonic
Grade: E5 6a ***
(High Tor)