The crag is south facing for the most part and quick drying, especially with a bit of sea breeze. However, it's worth bearing in mind that traversing along the platform at the base of the crag (needed to get to most routes) can be exciting in anything other than calm seas. The traverse is generally accessible 3 hours either side of high tide for most of the crag and the base of Terrier's Tooth and Bishop's Buttress for slightly longer, although these times are significantly reduced during neap tides. During high tides or when big seas are running, it is also possible to abseil in to the upper pitches of several routes.
Dates: 15 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restriction applies to all routes on Bishop's Buttress - from Lacertion to The Mitre inclusive (route 82, page 153 to route 14, page 159 in the 2017 Climber's Club guidebook).
Routes within Zawn Rinny (Consolation Climb to Shark Alley) are also restricted during the same period, but the Zawn Rinny descent for the western end of Chair Ladder is fine to use.
Rockfax Description
A long and varied line-up of steep pitches build to an exposed climax on the final headwall. Start left of the base of East Gully.
1) 4b, 13m. Climb three square-cut corners to a large ledge.
2) 5a, 15m. On the left of the ledge are two parallel rounded cracks. Take these steeply, and the crack above, to another good belay ledge.
3) 5a, 17m. Climb easily to another ledge in an overhung recess. Follow the steep right-hand corner to the overhang and pull right to an exposed ledge and belay.
4) 5b, 12m. Move right beneath the wall to a line of weakness and climb to a black streak. Follow the black streak on small holds to a break and make a final tricky sequence to pass it. The top is just above. © Rockfax
Kernow , West Country Climbs , South West in Extremis , Kernow
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Kike Kikon | 27 Jun, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: A fulmar is currently nesting (1egg) in the horizontal break in P3 | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: A fulmar is currently nesting (1egg) in the horizontal break in P3 |
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Carn Gowla)