Rockfax Description
12m. The classic of the crag and low in the grade. Using glassy slopers reach a good hold (5b for the short) and attain a standing position. Pad across the scoop and go up a thin crack to a pocket (Hex/cam) and a tricky finish on the left. Barefoot ascents have long been traditional though modern sticky rubber is a much better idea! For those who can't manage the start, the scoop can be accessed from Keep Arete at VS 4c. © Rockfax
FA. Stanley Jeffcoat 1914.
ROCKFAX Western Grit: Top 50 , The Roaches - Routes Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , World Graded List , Peak Rock/2/ The Search For Difficulty Begins. , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Castle Naze , Adele & Dave , Every Climb at Castle Naze , On Peak Rock , The Gritlist , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , McCoys Homestyle trad , The Alf Bridge Challenge , Off The Radar 300, Every Crag in The Peak , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Annaproffitt | 26 Nov, 2022 |
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βeta: Defo worth soloing! Amazing moves | ||
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βeta: Defo worth soloing! Amazing moves |
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C Witter | 20 Apr, 2022 |
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βeta: Yellow dmm hex is pocket-perfect. That is all. | ||
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βeta: Yellow dmm hex is pocket-perfect. That is all. |
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raussmf | 27 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: Got sangbagged. 1 bit of gear in | βeta? | |
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βeta: Got sangbagged. 1 bit of gear in |
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andy_b135 | 19 Sep, 2006 |
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βeta: Easy for the grade, but a distinct lack of gear, you need a hex for the pocket, I put i friend in it which wriggled out. My first HVS though, not much harder than nozag | βeta? | |
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βeta: Easy for the grade, but a distinct lack of gear, you need a hex for the pocket, I put i friend in it which wriggled out. My first HVS though, not much harder than nozag |
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The Mountain Goat | 26 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: Led this on what I thought was my first HVS lead, only to find later that I had done the Vs 4c start. As long as your not drunk balencing in the scoop shouldn't cause problems. I to experiance a worrying lack of gear at the top! Will definatly go back and do it properly. | ||
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βeta: Led this on what I thought was my first HVS lead, only to find later that I had done the Vs 4c start. As long as your not drunk balencing in the scoop shouldn't cause problems. I to experiance a worrying lack of gear at the top! Will definatly go back and do it properly. |
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Alex1 | 9 May, 2005 |
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βeta: Rockcentric 9 into the hole and twist bomber. Saves your second spending 10 minutes attempting to get the cam out (ahem Si). If you use high step ups this root will seem much easier. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Rockcentric 9 into the hole and twist bomber. Saves your second spending 10 minutes attempting to get the cam out (ahem Si). If you use high step ups this root will seem much easier. |
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Si dH | 9 May, 2005 |
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βeta: Yep friend 3 absolutely bomber in the hole although tricky to squeeze in, and out! I didnt get anything else in after that although I could if I'd looked more carefully, the top-out definitely made it feel like HVS, very bold. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Yep friend 3 absolutely bomber in the hole although tricky to squeeze in, and out! I didnt get anything else in after that although I could if I'd looked more carefully, the top-out definitely made it feel like HVS, very bold. |
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Rampikino | 14 Apr, 2005 |
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βeta: Gripping - much more than expected. Did the 4c start and it still shattered my nerves. The gear was hit and miss, only saw the high friend placement late, but it made all the difference in making that steep move over the top. A good route, but feels serious. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Gripping - much more than expected. Did the 4c start and it still shattered my nerves. The gear was hit and miss, only saw the high friend placement late, but it made all the difference in making that steep move over the top. A good route, but feels serious. |
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Gripped | 3 Jul, 2004 |
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βeta: I couldn't find anything near the top so fluttered my way over the top! Brilliant! | βeta? | |
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βeta: I couldn't find anything near the top so fluttered my way over the top! Brilliant! |
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Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Kinder Downfall)