UKH

12m.

Rockfax Description
12m. The groove left of the jutting buttress was popular in days of old, hence the polish. Awkward but well-protected and a nice pitch. The last section is easier than it looks from below. © Rockfax

Ticklists

The Roaches - Routes Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , Laycock's List - the original 1913 gritstone graded list , Every Climb at Castle Naze , Graham Hoey’s Best Peak District Gritstone Routes for Beginners , Innominata Mountain Club 30th Anniversary Peak District List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Queen of the Traverse 8 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Did with instructor and was glad of it as a new leader - sometimes hard to see where the holds / route will be and hard to protect the top ramp from the bottom if 5'3'' - had to climb up a little, place, then back down, on tiny feet. Would have felt less scary if could reach up and protect it from the nice stance.
Show beta
βeta: Did with instructor and was glad of it as a new leader - sometimes hard to see where the holds / route will be and hard to protect the top ramp from the bottom if 5'3'' - had to climb up a little, place, then back down, on tiny feet. Would have felt less scary if could reach up and protect it from the nice stance.
acrawley 24 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: BEWARE..There is a loose block very near the top on the left face of the corner. There is evidence of an old chalk 'X' to mark the fact that is loose. I suspect it wll come off one day! It's large enough to cause serious injury or worse for the belayer/people below.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: BEWARE..There is a loose block very near the top on the left face of the corner. There is evidence of an old chalk 'X' to mark the fact that is loose. I suspect it wll come off one day! It's large enough to cause serious injury or worse for the belayer/people below.
AB 25 Jul, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: The first (slightly sloping) ledge is really quite polished now, both me (seconding) and the leader slipped a bit before steadying ourselves.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The first (slightly sloping) ledge is really quite polished now, both me (seconding) and the leader slipped a bit before steadying ourselves.
JohnHutch 4 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: A move or 2 before the top were the hard ones for me - and I am tall! At least 4a.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A move or 2 before the top were the hard ones for me - and I am tall! At least 4a.
carriegold 27 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The top move is quite thought provoking especially if you are short (I'm 5' 4"). Very pleased to finish tho. Would highly recommend it. :-)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The top move is quite thought provoking especially if you are short (I'm 5' 4"). Very pleased to finish tho. Would highly recommend it. :-)

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Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 86
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 77
Votes cast 76
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
DWS
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Black Hawk Hell Crack

Grade: S 4a ***
(Stanage Popular)

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