Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
The annual nesting restriction covers the whole crag. Several protected species nest both on the crag and directly on the crag above the descent gully, and the whole crag is restricted between the above dates. Keep an eye/ear open for the birds and for signs on the approach. If the birds fledge early or fail to nest then the signs will be removed.
The routes on the left hand side that are approached by abseil (Opal Moon) are also restricted due to nesting sea-birds and the restriction applies here even if restrictions are lifted for the remainder of the crag.
A fantastic and varied route, with a pumpy first pitch that leads to a stunning climax in the upper groove. Start to the left of a grotty pillar under a small cave.
1) 5c, 22m. Scramble up to the cave. Climb the awkward crack out of the cave and step right onto the wall above a thread. Go up to a roof (peg) then right again and up a bulging groove. Move right to the foot of another groove and climb this moving left at the top to a stance. Bolt belay.
2) 6a,15m. Move left to the black groove and climb it past a bolt. At the break traverse right to a belay. Abseil off or...
3) 5b, 10m. Move up left into a corner then up to a peg. Move left again and finish direct. Belay well back. © Rockfax
FA. R.Edwards, N.Metcalf, T.Jepson (3 pts) 11.10.75. FFA. Rowland Edwards 1976.
Extreme Rock , North Wales Rock Graded List , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , Ultimate E4 ticklist
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