Rockfax Description
A pleasant route and a good tick for any VS leader. Start as for Unicorn on the left-hand side of the crag.
1) 4b, 15m. Unicorn P1.
2) 4c, 24m. Move right onto a black slab, continue diagonally right to an overlap/break. Keep going up and right to a large fissure and climb this past a chockstone until a swing right on the wall leads to a stance.
3) 4a, 26m. Climb the slab on the right, pass a short chimney, and continue on to Crackstone Rib.
4) 4a, 18m. Step right and climb up to a tree and junction with Ribstone Crack. Follow a large flake as for Ribstone Crack. © Rockfax
"A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Summer 2021 , Welsh Roadtrip , Joes North Wales VS spaff attack , Routes for MCI
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Rafal Malczyk | 9 Jun, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Quite hard chimney on the 2nd pitch. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Quite hard chimney on the 2nd pitch. |
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Pixie-Andy | 23 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: The large wobbly spike of rock, (at the mid point where 3 routes cross), has either fallen or been removed. I hope no one was hurt. Technically this makes the route slightly harder, although i avoided using it last time, anyway. I did pitch 1 and 2, VS 5a, with ground fall potential on first pitch. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The large wobbly spike of rock, (at the mid point where 3 routes cross), has either fallen or been removed. I hope no one was hurt. Technically this makes the route slightly harder, although i avoided using it last time, anyway. I did pitch 1 and 2, VS 5a, with ground fall potential on first pitch. |
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moberg | 9 Jul, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: The first pitch is bold, with ground fall potential. Not sure why this isn't indicated in the guide book. | ||
Show beta
βeta: The first pitch is bold, with ground fall potential. Not sure why this isn't indicated in the guide book. |
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Clogwyn y Wenallt)