35m, 2 pitches.
1 20m 5c
Just right of Biceps Wall is a thin crack left of the arete. Use small holds up the wall right of the crack to better ones above. Follow Biceps Wall to the ledge / long overhang and Belay below the crack of Temper.
2 15m 6a
Left of Temper's crack take the wall this time with better holds lower down becoming harder. Pull up to snatch the break above and gain the Holly Tree ledge. Gain the sloping shelf on the left and finish up Turtle Tantrum's Arete.
Just right of Biceps Wall is a thin crack left of the arete. Use small holds up the wall right of the crack to better ones above. Follow Biceps Wall to the ledge / long overhang and Belay below the crack of Temper.
2 15m 6a
Left of Temper's crack take the wall this time with better holds lower down becoming harder. Pull up to snatch the break above and gain the Holly Tree ledge. Gain the sloping shelf on the left and finish up Turtle Tantrum's Arete.
A Leary, M Bailey 24/Aug/2017.
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Route of Interest
Nosferatu
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Craig Yr Wrysgan)