Although situated on open access land the owners (Forestry Commission) from time to time are granted permisson to suspend public access to this venue in order to carry out forestry operations, including felling and timber extraction. However access to the cliff should not be affected, as long as climbers park in the village and walk up the track. Be aware that at some times due to forestry works that access might be limited, and forestry vehicles will be using the track.
JUNE 2024- Currently some forestry works being undertaken below the crag. Might not be the quiet experience you're looking for, possibly access might be harder.
Rockfax Description
A good old thrutch is required, as are very dry conditions and multiple large cams. Start below a deep corner.
1) 4c, 12m. Climb the left wall until a reach right to the grassy ledge. Belay on the right, below the impending crack/groove.
2) 5b, 22m. Move up to the corner and let the battle commence. At the roof, move left and continue on in the same vein. Belay at the top, usually in a somewhat exhausted state. © Rockfax
User | Date | Notes | ||
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agour | 3 Jun, 2023 |
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βeta: 1x dragon cam #5. 2x #6, and 1x #7 (optional, not essential), and few slings will get you up the offwidth! | βeta? | |
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βeta: 1x dragon cam #5. 2x #6, and 1x #7 (optional, not essential), and few slings will get you up the offwidth! |
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LucaC | 5 Sep, 2022 |
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βeta: Probably E2 unless you take double #4&5s. It\'s wide and the chockstones are loose. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Probably E2 unless you take double #4&5s. It's wide and the chockstones are loose. |
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LucaC | 4 Sep, 2022 |
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βeta: Probably E2 unless you take double #4&5s. It's wide and the chockstones are loose. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Probably E2 unless you take double #4&5s. It's wide and the chockstones are loose. |
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Lankcroft | 1 Sep, 2021 |
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βeta: E2 if you don't have a big cam (camalot 4ish) | ||
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βeta: E2 if you don't have a big cam (camalot 4ish) |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Llech Ddu (Black Slab))