Rockfax Description
110m. The line of least resistance snaking left under the main roof to find its main break. A classic, with all the best that Carnmore
has to offer, huge holds and tremendous exposure: VS climbing in an impressive position. Start at the right end of the main face, where the Central Bay begins to rise up into the base of Carnmore Corner.
1. 30m 4c Traverse left along an overhung ledge to a break in the overhang; go up right and climb a shallow corner to a belay.
2. 45m 4c Traverse away left by the easiest line under the great roof to negotiate an out-thrust shield of rock (the Swallow's Nest) where The Sword and St. George come up from below. Continue the traverse to a good pulpit belay not far right from Dragon's pedestal.
3. 35m 4c Take the break up and right through the roof. Finish direct up a left-slanting fault.
FA D.Haston, R.Smith, Apr 1960 © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A superb adventure traversing under the huge roof in the upper tier.
Robin Smith & Dougal Haston Apr/1960.
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Grade: HVS ***
(Polldubh Crags, Glen Nevis)