Rockfax Description
240m. Initially vegetated, this route unfolds to give an exposed and varied climb on perfect rock; a great mountaineering experience for the VS leader. Start from the highest point of the heather in a bay under the Great Chimney, below a steep clean slabby wall capped by a prominent roof.
1. 30m 4c Start up the right of the slabby wall for a short way. Traverse right into a corner, climb its right wall and go round onto a ledge. Climb the crack in the wall on the right for 3m then step right onto a slab. Cross this and belay at a chockstone in the chimney beyond.
2. 20m 4a Go up the right wall, then grass trending right to a spike belay at the base of a flake leaning against grey slabs.
3. 20m 4c Climb the wide flake, then go slightly right up the slab. Move left past a flange and some pockets, then pull direct into a scoop beneath a roof. Step down left to belay.
4. 25m 4c Traverse left, then go up left to a recess (usually wet) with large bollards. Go up the wet red corner above to a grass recess.
5. 25m 5a Climb up corners or walls above to surmount the prominent overhang by sensational moves 3m from its right end (crux). Move right to a stance.
6. 25m 4b Traverse right across the face to a stance on the true nose of the buttress.
7. 20m 4c Gain a flake up on the left by a steep groove above the belay. Above this, move a little left, then go up right.
8. 20m 4b Follow the slabs above on the crest to reach a niche.
9. 20m 4b Go up the crest to a heather ledge and perched blocks below an overhanging slab.
10. 20m 4a Climb over the blocks and up the slab on to a shelf. Move right to its top corner.
11. 20m 4a Finish up the wall above and then left to the top.
FA M.J.O'Hara, W.D.Blackwood, 7 Apr 1957 © Rockfax

Ticklists

The 100 Best UK VS routes? , Classic Far Northwest , Ultimate Scottish Rock , Scottish Mid-Grade Multi-Pitch , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , UK Lonely Leads , The Great Mountain Crags of Scotland , High Quality Adventure routes , Chris H's 100 Mega Classic Trad , UK Holiday Plans , Pre-MIA Wishlist , Garry Latter, Scottish Ticklist up to VS , 50 Top Scottish VS's , Scottish Four Star Multi Pitch Routes to E2 (and Old Man Of Hoy) , Dan's Scottish Summer Hopefuls , A.P's summer , Scotland dreamin , Rope Solo , Banfords Road Trip Ticklist , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist , Scotland climbing

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