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3 March 2023 update: Peregrines and other seabirds are either prospecting or nesting on this crag.

A temporary ban has been put in place by the National Trust covering the area of cliff between Tubby Head and Bawden Cliff, so includes all of the major route locations up to and including the America Buttress. Once the exact locations of any nests have been identified, restrictions may be lifted.

from 03/03/0023

60m. This route takes the far right bounding corner of the mercury wall, where A buttress starts with bohemian.
Abseil in as for bohemian.
(Climbed as an escape route after failing the second time to climb euthanasia, hence the title)!
Start as for bohemian to keep well away from falling rocks, climb the huge flake that leads up the corner, steady but serious rock management required as the whole flake is waiting for its final destination. Until at 50m a groove leading to right offers more solid climbing and a fine exit at 5a/5b, to rabbit Warren belays (using 60m rope). Unless a pre placed rope is used to the top of the climb, you will need to untie the rope and use the ab rope to back up the rabbit Warren belays.

Luke pavey and Andy Peasgood 01/Jun/2003.

* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.

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Route of Interest
Wall and Groove

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Trewethet Cliff (North))

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