UKH

Rockfax Description
The first section tackles the enticing hole mid-way up the magnificent blank slab in California. It involves some tricky climbing, but can be done in reverse if the weather is poor or the climbing team are not up to it.
1) Follow the normal approach to California to the base of the left-hand side of the main California Wall.
2) Make a short hard move to the chain and hand-over-hand up this until you get your feet onto good holds where you can rest. Carry on up to a bolt belay in the tunnel mouth.
3) Walk through the tunnel and abseil from the chain on the tree.
In Reverse - You can scramble up to the tree in the California exit tunnel and go through this to pop out halfway up the California Wall. Abseil down past the chain and then go back out through the California approach tunnel. This makes the whole Snakes and Ladders trip technically much easier since you miss the hard pull to the chain.
4) Walk back along the approach to the Tunnel of Love, on the right of Dali's Wall. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Jack And Sophie's Super Fun Timez

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User Date Notes
Larkintom 19 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: No longer a hard move to the chains. Rungs have been placed.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: No longer a hard move to the chains. Rungs have been placed.
j616s 22 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Someone's hung a second chain to the right of the first. It's the same big stuff as the main chain but is rigged on a thick rope from the 3rd metal bar at the mouth of the tunnel. The one not used by the rigging of the original chain. This new chain only goes as high as the half-way bars. There's some fraying on the rope half way between the chain and the tunnel mouth. There's no redundancy in the rigging. Doesn't look that legit, even for Snakes and Ladders. I'd stick to the main chain on the left by the rungs, myself.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Someone's hung a second chain to the right of the first. It's the same big stuff as the main chain but is rigged on a thick rope from the 3rd metal bar at the mouth of the tunnel. The one not used by the rigging of the original chain. This new chain only goes as high as the half-way bars. There's some fraying on the rope half way between the chain and the tunnel mouth. There's no redundancy in the rigging. Doesn't look that legit, even for Snakes and Ladders. I'd stick to the main chain on the left by the rungs, myself.
gmuston 7 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Freed the chain without pulling my shoulder finally!
Show beta
βeta: Freed the chain without pulling my shoulder finally!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for California

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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Superdirect

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Tryfan)

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