Restricted Access

Please avoid damaging fences - use the stiles provided. Historically there were access problems here, partially as a result of liability concerns and also due to damage to fences, but these appear to be resolved at this time.

There has been significant rock fall across this area over the past few years, climbers should check the route and be aware of more collapsing rock. Routes that have been affected are Septuagenarian, Guillotine, Wusty Wolf and possibly the start of Fool’s Gold.

 

 

9m.

Rockfax Description
The curving flake leads up and right to the shared lower-off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The curved crack in the bay opposite Comfort Zone, this is on the upper level (back) side of fools gold.
Climb the very sharp crack/flake with a pull to start followed by easier ground and an interesting move to reach the lower off chain of the adjacent sport route. Lower off (logical) , or follow the crack above to the fools gold ledge if you're a purist.

Rob G. Bell 13/Sep/2020.

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User Date Notes
FatRob 13 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: A bit loose at present, medium wires and small cams protect.
Show beta
βeta: A bit loose at present, medium wires and small cams protect.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Bus Stop Quarry

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High VS
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Votes cast 2
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Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
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Route of Interest
Tennis Shoe

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Idwal Slabs (aka Cwm Idwal))

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