8m.
Rockfax Description
A oddly-named route up the wide crack in the slabby angle. Awkward but large gear, big feet and determination all help. © Rockfax
FA. Jack Macleod 1934.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Eastern Grit Jamming , Northern Peak Grit 100 VD - VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , To Goliath's Groove and beyond , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Burbage South Edge , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Burbage Starred VS , Burbage Valley Circuit VD to VS
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| HaleAlex | 18 Sep, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Scuffle. But enjoyable! Never felt like I was gonna fall out but upward progress was hard won. Ran out of cams big enough about half way up the crack (Big purple dragon would've been nice! And a green would've gone in too). Fists then arm bars/stacks widening to a chicken wing at the tippy top with helpful smears/dishes on the slab. Could've done with some tape on my left ankle. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Scuffle. But enjoyable! Never felt like I was gonna fall out but upward progress was hard won. Ran out of cams big enough about half way up the crack (Big purple dragon would've been nice! And a green would've gone in too). Fists then arm bars/stacks widening to a chicken wing at the tippy top with helpful smears/dishes on the slab. Could've done with some tape on my left ankle. |
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| David Alcock | 13 May, 2022 |
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βeta: I've done this three times. It felt easy the first time, and a desperate struggle since. Why easy the first time? I kept my big boots on. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: I've done this three times. It felt easy the first time, and a desperate struggle since. Why easy the first time? I kept my big boots on. |
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| Albie | 14 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: How the hell is this only VS. I totally struggled to half way up. Saved the no 4 cam and put it as high as possible as the crack just widens but could not climb passed. Bailed and let my E2 partner have a bash. He struggled up but found no gear at the horizontal break and exited with nothing other than the big cam at half height. An utterly desperate and dangerous climb for a VS climber. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: How the hell is this only VS. I totally struggled to half way up. Saved the no 4 cam and put it as high as possible as the crack just widens but could not climb passed. Bailed and let my E2 partner have a bash. He struggled up but found no gear at the horizontal break and exited with nothing other than the big cam at half height. An utterly desperate and dangerous climb for a VS climber. |
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| Jessierosemcguire | 8 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: Found the route scary... Awkward and foot jams not great. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Found the route scary... Awkward and foot jams not great. |
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| paul mitchell | 30 Jun, 2019 |
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βeta: High time this was graded hvs. | βeta? | |
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βeta: High time this was graded hvs. |
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| lithos | 4 Aug, 2007 |
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βeta: bloody hell what a fight, really nice at the bottom, I thought i could layback it but too slippery for hands. Shorts and t-shirt are not idea (as I can testify), but a rack of friend 5s is ! | βeta? | |
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βeta: bloody hell what a fight, really nice at the bottom, I thought i could layback it but too slippery for hands. Shorts and t-shirt are not idea (as I can testify), but a rack of friend 5s is ! |
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| Fidget | 25 Mar, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: I agree with dave F that the overhanging face on the left makes the slab look more slabby. I made it half way up the slab (after downclimbing to the ledge a couple of times), put one foot on the slab and went a bit mental! Put both feet back in the crag and udged up a bit further but I couldn't bring myself to let go of the chockstone. Eventually ran out of energy and slithered down for a while before shouting take and then beating up the slab a bit. And I even think I can udge! I abbed for my gear, to discover there doesn't even appear to be any gear in the upper break, so kind of glad I didn't actually get that far. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I agree with dave F that the overhanging face on the left makes the slab look more slabby. I made it half way up the slab (after downclimbing to the ledge a couple of times), put one foot on the slab and went a bit mental! Put both feet back in the crag and udged up a bit further but I couldn't bring myself to let go of the chockstone. Eventually ran out of energy and slithered down for a while before shouting take and then beating up the slab a bit. And I even think I can udge! I abbed for my gear, to discover there doesn't even appear to be any gear in the upper break, so kind of glad I didn't actually get that far. |
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| Herdwickmatt | 11 May, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Glad to see it wasn#t just me bottling it on this route :-D Mmmm.... Never did like real climbing always was more of a boulderer... maybe its cos i can't jam.... | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Glad to see it wasn#t just me bottling it on this route :-D Mmmm.... Never did like real climbing always was more of a boulderer... maybe its cos i can't jam.... |
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| Mick B | 24 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: Good route but no pushover. The slab mysteriously tilts itself steeper while you`re doing the bottom moves. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Good route but no pushover. The slab mysteriously tilts itself steeper while you`re doing the bottom moves. |
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| featuresforfeet | 18 Jul, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Attempted first VS lead - failed. Got foot stuck in the crack and concern for leaving behind in a fall took over. Have left some skin up there for the rest of you. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Attempted first VS lead - failed. Got foot stuck in the crack and concern for leaving behind in a fall took over. Have left some skin up there for the rest of you. |
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| G. Tiger, Esq. | 7 Jun, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: agree with taping up ankles, not a route to do wearing shorts, as my knees soon found out. bottled it on teh lead, so did my mate, so i went back and finished it second go, glad i did it's a really worthwhile route. and there's gear higher up the slab if you reach out to the pocket | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: agree with taping up ankles, not a route to do wearing shorts, as my knees soon found out. bottled it on teh lead, so did my mate, so i went back and finished it second go, glad i did it's a really worthwhile route. and there's gear higher up the slab if you reach out to the pocket |
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| crazydiamond | 18 Mar, 2004 |
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βeta: I shit myself, the biggest i had was size 3 hex... and im crap at jamming and have small legs and am skinny.... It felt like 5a at least to me.... o well... | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I shit myself, the biggest i had was size 3 hex... and im crap at jamming and have small legs and am skinny.... It felt like 5a at least to me.... o well... |
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| Jon Greengrass | 17 Sep, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: after gaining the ledge handjam through the overlap, fist jam to get your feet up on the slab,jam left foot in smear high with your right and bring your left leg up in a knee jam. Take both hands off wave to the crowds and continue to the summit. if your biggest gear is a friend 4 you're highest gear will be about half height! | ||
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Show beta
βeta: after gaining the ledge handjam through the overlap, fist jam to get your feet up on the slab,jam left foot in smear high with your right and bring your left leg up in a knee jam. Take both hands off wave to the crowds and continue to the summit. if your biggest gear is a friend 4 you're highest gear will be about half height! |
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| Monk | 19 Jun, 2003 |
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βeta: The overhanging face next to it makes the slab look a lot less steep than it really is. Good route but I'm glad I had a camelot 4! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The overhanging face next to it makes the slab look a lot less steep than it really is. Good route but I'm glad I had a camelot 4! |
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| johncoxmysteriously | 15 May, 2003 |
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βeta: About Severe. If you think this a horror then oh boy do you have a lot to learn about gritstone unpleasantnesses | βeta? | |
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βeta: About Severe. If you think this a horror then oh boy do you have a lot to learn about gritstone unpleasantnesses |
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| thebigfriendlymoose | 14 May, 2003 |
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βeta: fun but strenuous - the crack became difficult to cam and I found myself some way above any reliable gear, relying on thigh-jams and wriggling to ascend! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: fun but strenuous - the crack became difficult to cam and I found myself some way above any reliable gear, relying on thigh-jams and wriggling to ascend! |
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| Nick Smith - Climbers | 9 Apr, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: The wide crack swallows all large cams. Layback it if you can and jam/arm-bar/thrutch it if you can't. Don't make the mistake I did - wearing approach shoes instead of rock boots doesn't help in either jamming the crack or smearing on the slab! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The wide crack swallows all large cams. Layback it if you can and jam/arm-bar/thrutch it if you can't. Don't make the mistake I did - wearing approach shoes instead of rock boots doesn't help in either jamming the crack or smearing on the slab! |
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Route of Interest
Himmelswillen
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Wharncliffe Crags)