Restricted Access

No access problems. The area is part of the Eastern Edges SSSI designated for its assemblage of breeding birds - please make sure dogs are under control to protect birds and sheep: the grazier has reported losses.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzel nest sites change quickly and frequently as they often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate. 

8m.

Rockfax Description
Trend right up the wall then finish direct. A bit reachy in its central section, to a high crux. Escaping right is only worth VS. © Rockfax

FA. Dave Gregory 1964.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500

Feedback

User Date Notes
Chris the Tall 3 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Right hand wall now appears as Wollock Direct -HVS 5c - but I prefer to regard it as a boulder problem and then sneak off to the crack. There is also a left hand variant to Wollock, trend towards the blunt arete and head for the gap in the capping block. E1 5a/b, gets very slopey at the final break and the top isn't much better
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Right hand wall now appears as Wollock Direct -HVS 5c - but I prefer to regard it as a boulder problem and then sneak off to the crack. There is also a left hand variant to Wollock, trend towards the blunt arete and head for the gap in the capping block. E1 5a/b, gets very slopey at the final break and the top isn't much better
Duncan I 1 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Difficult to grade. 4c is about right. And probably HVS. I put a rope on for the eliminate to the right - what fun! How come it's not route in it's own right? HVS 5b/5c depending on your height and worth a star.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Difficult to grade. 4c is about right. And probably HVS. I put a rope on for the eliminate to the right - what fun! How come it's not route in it's own right? HVS 5b/5c depending on your height and worth a star.
Jon Stewart 30 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: yep, the wall to the right is a cool little route and didn't feel too contrived to warrant a mention...hvs 5c, but only just 5c?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: yep, the wall to the right is a cool little route and didn't feel too contrived to warrant a mention...hvs 5c, but only just 5c?
Monk 16 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Wierd one to judge. I thought the protection was adequate - much better than the grade would suggest. I spent too much time faffing with marginal placements (due to the undeserved reputation) only to move up to find good ones so got very pumped. The climbing felt strenuous for 4c but not much harder and certainly felt more HVS than VS.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Wierd one to judge. I thought the protection was adequate - much better than the grade would suggest. I spent too much time faffing with marginal placements (due to the undeserved reputation) only to move up to find good ones so got very pumped. The climbing felt strenuous for 4c but not much harder and certainly felt more HVS than VS.
Whealiebob 5 Nov, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Don't let the first few easyish (but very nice) moves lull you into a sense of false security...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Don't let the first few easyish (but very nice) moves lull you into a sense of false security...

Logged Ascents

508 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Burbage North

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 23 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 52
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 52
Votes cast 49
Style of Ascent
Lead
Soloed
Followed
Toproped
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Plexity

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Millstone Edge)

Loading Notifications...