Restricted Access

No access problems. The area is part of the Eastern Edges SSSI designated for its assemblage of breeding birds - please make sure dogs are under control to protect birds and sheep: the grazier has reported losses.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzel nest sites change quickly and frequently as they often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate. 

8m.

Rockfax Description
The roof crack via a jam and jugs is easiest if you stay out from the crack as much as possible. A knee-bar might be of help. © Rockfax

FA. Pat Fearneough early 1960s.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Days of the Week , Bouldering cracks , A Week in the Peak , Burbage North Rockfax Orange Circuit , Hardest HVSs in the Peak , Best Forgotten Art

Feedback

User Date Notes
Pythonist 10 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: One of the very few routes you absolutely have to jam on... Boulder problem, not a route, but a fairly hard one for 5b.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: One of the very few routes you absolutely have to jam on... Boulder problem, not a route, but a fairly hard one for 5b.
Andy Fielding 28 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: This is a bomb proof jam followed by a large jug. VS 4c in my book.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This is a bomb proof jam followed by a large jug. VS 4c in my book.
andybuckley 12 Dec, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Just "accidentally" soloed this while demonstrating how to get the hand jam in on the lip. "Then you can get your foot up, grab the break and... oops!" Certainly went a lot smoother as a solo than when I led it and I think once you've got the good breaks you could probably jump off easily enough. Such a nice route... I was keen to do this ever since seeing Best Forgotten Art.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Just "accidentally" soloed this while demonstrating how to get the hand jam in on the lip. "Then you can get your foot up, grab the break and... oops!" Certainly went a lot smoother as a solo than when I led it and I think once you've got the good breaks you could probably jump off easily enough. Such a nice route... I was keen to do this ever since seeing Best Forgotten Art.
chris j 21 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: It's a nice boulder problem... Much easier if you don't faff about with ropes and gear!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It's a nice boulder problem... Much easier if you don't faff about with ropes and gear!
Lurkio 5 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I think this really only deserves VS. It is a one-move wonder (5b is about right), but it's as safe as houses with a big cam stuffed up the crack. And after that it isn't even moderate. Nice though, I'd give it a star...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I think this really only deserves VS. It is a one-move wonder (5b is about right), but it's as safe as houses with a big cam stuffed up the crack. And after that it isn't even moderate. Nice though, I'd give it a star...

Logged Ascents

622 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Burbage North

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 74
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 75
Votes cast 73
Style of Ascent
Soloed
Lead
Bouldered
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Lyons Corner House

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Millstone Edge)

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