Restricted Access
No access problems. The area is part of the Eastern Edges SSSI designated for its assemblage of breeding birds - please make sure dogs are under control to protect birds and sheep: the grazier has reported losses.
Seasonal Restrictions
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzel nest sites change quickly and frequently as they often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Rockfax Description
The leaning jamming-crack gives a short-lived tussle. Good gear. © Rockfax
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Northern Peak Grit 100 VD - VS , Burbage North VS Challenge (Rockfax Eastern Grit) , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , Burbage Starred VS
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| roberto18 | 21 Apr, 2007 |
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βeta: If you can jam well and you are fairly flexible then its VS 4C, but if you can't jam then this route is nearly impossible. the crux move is well protected so just go for it!. | βeta? | |
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βeta: If you can jam well and you are fairly flexible then its VS 4C, but if you can't jam then this route is nearly impossible. the crux move is well protected so just go for it!. |
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| Iain Thow | 17 Mar, 2007 |
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βeta: aaaaarghh*!:#? My fists are still sore & it was years ago! | βeta? | |
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βeta: aaaaarghh*!:#? My fists are still sore & it was years ago! |
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| Si dH | 12 Nov, 2006 |
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βeta: Not sure this is worth 5a? Bit awkward but perfectly fair VS 4c. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Not sure this is worth 5a? Bit awkward but perfectly fair VS 4c. |
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| Paul Tomo | 24 May, 2006 |
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βeta: Just my type of climb, really enjoyed it, one piece of gear under the overhang and go for it. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Just my type of climb, really enjoyed it, one piece of gear under the overhang and go for it. |
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| Jody | 10 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: Did this thinking it was Lieback, laybacked it and thought it was fairly easy (probably easier for the tall). How does a very well protected route with a 4c crux at 6m get VS while a technical poorly protected (i.e. one ok peanut) route, Spider Crack, with a 5m high 5b crux gets VS also (at 8 and 6 metres respectfully neither are sustained). Been away for a while and I had forgotten about the UK’s grading idiosyncrasies. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Did this thinking it was Lieback, laybacked it and thought it was fairly easy (probably easier for the tall). How does a very well protected route with a 4c crux at 6m get VS while a technical poorly protected (i.e. one ok peanut) route, Spider Crack, with a 5m high 5b crux gets VS also (at 8 and 6 metres respectfully neither are sustained). Been away for a while and I had forgotten about the UK’s grading idiosyncrasies. |
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| JohnHutch | 3 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: If Lieback is VS 4c, then this must be HVS 5b! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: If Lieback is VS 4c, then this must be HVS 5b! |
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| The Mountain Goat | 27 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: Not that difficult once you find the holds. Good gear, but take care not to block your hand jams. Then put your foot up and go, I wussed out three times before I went for it, only to find it's actually rather nice. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Not that difficult once you find the holds. Good gear, but take care not to block your hand jams. Then put your foot up and go, I wussed out three times before I went for it, only to find it's actually rather nice. |
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| Northern Mountain Monkey | 9 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: The hand jam is bomber. I reckon it could be harder if you are really tall (I am 6'4'') as its awkward getting your right foot up. I did the crux eventually but then took my first leader fall. Good Gear! VS 5a in my book. NMM | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The hand jam is bomber. I reckon it could be harder if you are really tall (I am 6'4'') as its awkward getting your right foot up. I did the crux eventually but then took my first leader fall. Good Gear! VS 5a in my book. NMM |
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| Crammy | 2 May, 2004 |
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βeta: Using the left arete makes the crux much easier. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Using the left arete makes the crux much easier. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Burbage North
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
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Himmelswillen
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Wharncliffe Crags)