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10m.

Rockfax Description
A mini-classic, and a great little route following the crack cleaving the bulges. It is jug-pulling once the initial awkward roof is passed but this is a real struggle for many. © Rockfax

FA. Eric Byrom 1934.

Ticklists

Connoisseur's Classic Rock, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Eastern Grit Jamming, Northern Peak Grit 100 VD - VS, Tom Randall's Classic Hand cracks, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Chatsworth to Bamford, WideBoyz Crack School, Top 50 Peak Cracks, Peak district Road To Ruins Diff-VS, Tom Ripley's best UK HS climbs, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), Consolidation and developmental path to VS, Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions, The Gritlist, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS, Proper Cracks UK, 2020 Trips, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List, Eastern Grit Trip: The Best Of The Proposed Crags.

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User Date Notes
JayWhiting 12 Jan Show βeta
βeta: Bold start, felt on the border between VS and HS. With hindsight it was probably worth placing the first bit of gear from the ground to protect during the roof. After that it's good jams and jugs. Over far too soon.
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βeta: Bold start, felt on the border between VS and HS. With hindsight it was probably worth placing the first bit of gear from the ground to protect during the roof. After that it's good jams and jugs. Over far too soon.
Pixie-Andy 21 Jun, 2015 Show βeta
βeta: IMO a 4c start if you rightly take your time to place protection from nasty fall.
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βeta: IMO a 4c start if you rightly take your time to place protection from nasty fall.
Jimbo C 24 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: It can't be VS, because I led it without sh**ing myself. Get the lovely jams in and it's probably right for HS 4b
βeta?
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βeta: It can't be VS, because I led it without sh**ing myself. Get the lovely jams in and it's probably right for HS 4b
roberto18 17 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: If this route isn't VS then inverted v on stanage should also be HS. Fantastic route defiantly my favourite on burbage, 3 stars.
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βeta: If this route isn't VS then inverted v on stanage should also be HS. Fantastic route defiantly my favourite on burbage, 3 stars.
Iain Thow 17 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Even after 10,000 plus grit routes I still think this is VS, for the intimidation factor if for nothing else. Got the start wrong once & had to jump off, despite being well used to VS at the time.
βeta?
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βeta: Even after 10,000 plus grit routes I still think this is VS, for the intimidation factor if for nothing else. Got the start wrong once & had to jump off, despite being well used to VS at the time.
Mutl3y 27 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Climbed this today after climbing Hell Crack (Stanage) a few days ago. Believe me, if Hell Crack is VS (which it is) then this is definitely HS. After you're over the first bulge it's plain sailing. It's certainly got nothing on Gritstone's Definitive VS crack The File which I won't dare go near.
βeta?
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βeta: Climbed this today after climbing Hell Crack (Stanage) a few days ago. Believe me, if Hell Crack is VS (which it is) then this is definitely HS. After you're over the first bulge it's plain sailing. It's certainly got nothing on Gritstone's Definitive VS crack The File which I won't dare go near.
craigswoods 31 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Awarkward move from under the low roof, after that it's a bit of a jug pulling exercise...feels good though!
βeta?
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βeta: Awarkward move from under the low roof, after that it's a bit of a jug pulling exercise...feels good though!
rob k 25 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Better climbing than Topsail on Birchen, possibly not as photogenic.
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βeta: Better climbing than Topsail on Birchen, possibly not as photogenic.
Alex@home 10 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Definitely HS 4b - the start isn't that hard so long as you commit to it (sorry, but if you can't commit to it then you can't call yourself an HS climber). It's got great gear all the way up and the top is easy but steep - place some good gear before you start the final section and just go for it. Course, getting through the 6 foot snow drift that covered the holly tree on Sunday would have added a grade or 2...
βeta?
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βeta: Definitely HS 4b - the start isn't that hard so long as you commit to it (sorry, but if you can't commit to it then you can't call yourself an HS climber). It's got great gear all the way up and the top is easy but steep - place some good gear before you start the final section and just go for it. Course, getting through the 6 foot snow drift that covered the holly tree on Sunday would have added a grade or 2...
Si dH 12 Dec, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Having finally managed this today (first time now) Id change my opinion to VS 4c. I still don't except 4b for the start although its not as hard as I originally thought. I'd say VS because by the time its at all easy to place any gear after the start you are a long way off the ground, plus gear placement is difficult after the mid-way rest because its overhanfing and strenuous (despite jugs).
βeta?
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βeta: Having finally managed this today (first time now) Id change my opinion to VS 4c. I still don't except 4b for the start although its not as hard as I originally thought. I'd say VS because by the time its at all easy to place any gear after the start you are a long way off the ground, plus gear placement is difficult after the mid-way rest because its overhanfing and strenuous (despite jugs).
GrahamD 25 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: A good, genuine Hard Severe. Good climbing, 4b, solid gear and good rests.
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βeta: A good, genuine Hard Severe. Good climbing, 4b, solid gear and good rests.
craig h 6 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I’d have possibly agreed with HS 4b a few years ago, but after doing it at the weekend found it hard for that grade. I think if you’re climbing regularly particularly at a harder grade this route is a jug-fest. However if you’re trying to progress through the grades or not feeling too strong this route is defiantly VS 4b. the lower section (crux) is strenuous and if you don’t do quickly you soon tire. The upper bulges are straight forward but can feel intimidating on the first time.
βeta?
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βeta: I’d have possibly agreed with HS 4b a few years ago, but after doing it at the weekend found it hard for that grade. I think if you’re climbing regularly particularly at a harder grade this route is a jug-fest. However if you’re trying to progress through the grades or not feeling too strong this route is defiantly VS 4b. the lower section (crux) is strenuous and if you don’t do quickly you soon tire. The upper bulges are straight forward but can feel intimidating on the first time.
Simon Caldwell 3 Aug, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: It may well be 4c/5a/even harder if you don't jam, but routes are graded for the easiest method, which in this case is 4b jamming!
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βeta: It may well be 4c/5a/even harder if you don't jam, but routes are graded for the easiest method, which in this case is 4b jamming!
Swirly 2 Aug, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Thought that HS 4b is pretty much spot on fro the grade, I wasn't a great jammer when I did the route and found it OK. The landing shouldn't matter, there's excellent gear the whole way.
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βeta: Thought that HS 4b is pretty much spot on fro the grade, I wasn't a great jammer when I did the route and found it OK. The landing shouldn't matter, there's excellent gear the whole way.
Si dH 1 Aug, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I thought i was becoming a confident HS leader until i tried this and couldn't do the strat, i got totally pumped placing gear and had to come down. Perhaps I should have just gone for it, but my jamming is poor (another major problem here), and I was likely to come off. If the start was 4b I would give this route HS since its off the deck despite being above a bad landing, but it aint. I found it considerably harder that anything on Knights move (5a), so it should it get at least 4c despite my lack of proficient jamming. Its basically a roof-crack for gods sake!
βeta?
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βeta: I thought i was becoming a confident HS leader until i tried this and couldn't do the strat, i got totally pumped placing gear and had to come down. Perhaps I should have just gone for it, but my jamming is poor (another major problem here), and I was likely to come off. If the start was 4b I would give this route HS since its off the deck despite being above a bad landing, but it aint. I found it considerably harder that anything on Knights move (5a), so it should it get at least 4c despite my lack of proficient jamming. Its basically a roof-crack for gods sake!
MartinWalker 25 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Was stunned yesterday when we go a new guidebook to find this was only HS. Start feels too committing to me for HS.
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βeta: Was stunned yesterday when we go a new guidebook to find this was only HS. Start feels too committing to me for HS.
Simon Caldwell 13 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: It didn't think it got much easier even after the start. The promised jugs don't appear until you virtually at the top, the rest is pretty sustained jamming. The route's got a better claim to be VS 4b than most other routes that are given this grade for reasons other than lack of gear.
βeta?
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βeta: It didn't think it got much easier even after the start. The promised jugs don't appear until you virtually at the top, the rest is pretty sustained jamming. The route's got a better claim to be VS 4b than most other routes that are given this grade for reasons other than lack of gear.
Stig 13 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Can't understand why this was downgraded. The start is harder than the "4c" start to Crack and Corner at the Roaches, and in a more serious/intimidating position. VS 4b it is.
βeta?
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βeta: Can't understand why this was downgraded. The start is harder than the "4c" start to Crack and Corner at the Roaches, and in a more serious/intimidating position. VS 4b it is.
Simon Caldwell 13 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I don't usually agree with grading VS 4b routes which are sustained and/or intimidating, but this is surely the 'definitive' VS 4b? Would get MVS in Yorkshire.
βeta?
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βeta: I don't usually agree with grading VS 4b routes which are sustained and/or intimidating, but this is surely the 'definitive' VS 4b? Would get MVS in Yorkshire.
Monk 7 Apr, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent but only HS. The first move is tricky but with overhead gear. After that it is about Vdiff.
βeta?
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βeta: Excellent but only HS. The first move is tricky but with overhead gear. After that it is about Vdiff.
paul wood 6 Jan, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: I was very surprised to see this down graded. Ok it is a Jug fest but HS? Better downgrade every HS at Stange then. I have discussed this with a few friends and they all felt it was fair for VS. If only for the start. I am interested to hear why it was downgraded.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I was very surprised to see this down graded. Ok it is a Jug fest but HS? Better downgrade every HS at Stange then. I have discussed this with a few friends and they all felt it was fair for VS. If only for the start. I am interested to hear why it was downgraded.

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 373
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 357
Votes cast 347
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Bouldered
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Amazon Crack

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Burbage North)