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16m.

Rockfax Description
A Burbage classic. Climb past some holes then take the thin cracks (small wires) and the wall above, following the flakes rightwards to finish. Mild at the grade but some have to be! © Rockfax

FA. Gilbert Ellis 1933.

Ticklists

Top 23 UKC Climbed Climbs, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Darrencabowabo,s hit list, World Graded List, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Peak Rock/4/ Universities,Teams and Clubs in the 1930's, 'Soft' Peak HVSs., CUMC Ticklist, ULMC Classics, Ultimate HVS ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions, The Gritlist, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List, Post-Covid19 Eastern Grit Targets., Soft Touches, Routes Chloe would recommend

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User Date Notes
JayW 15 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: A really fine climb and good for a first HVS lead. The protection is solid throughout and the route has a bit of everything - laybacking, jamming and smearing. A good one to tick. Used a number 1 nut at the start of the flake and a #1 cam at the horizontal break after the reachy move.
 
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βeta: A really fine climb and good for a first HVS lead. The protection is solid throughout and the route has a bit of everything - laybacking, jamming and smearing. A good one to tick. Used a number 1 nut at the start of the flake and a #1 cam at the horizontal break after the reachy move.
iainJ 14 Mar, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Block in the middle is loose.
βeta?
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βeta: Block in the middle is loose.
PaulJepson 16 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Definitely HVS.
βeta?
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βeta: Definitely HVS.
Paul Tomo 18 Jul, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: This very fine climb is easy for its grade, this was the first and last climb of the day, it started to rain just as i finished the climb, looking forwards to doing this route again, in better weather conditions.
βeta?
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βeta: This very fine climb is easy for its grade, this was the first and last climb of the day, it started to rain just as i finished the climb, looking forwards to doing this route again, in better weather conditions.
EarlyBird 9 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Any grade will contain a range from easy to hard. K.M. is easy for the grade, only just HVS in fact; the examples you provide for comparison are right at the other end of the scale.
βeta?
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βeta: Any grade will contain a range from easy to hard. K.M. is easy for the grade, only just HVS in fact; the examples you provide for comparison are right at the other end of the scale.
AJ007 7 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I know the grade debate will go on forever, but a ask anyone who thinks this is HVS 5a to go and climb ‘Saul’s crack’(Roaches) then ‘Suicide wall’(Cratcliff), if these three climbs are the same grade the grading system needs re-evaluating.
βeta?
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βeta: I know the grade debate will go on forever, but a ask anyone who thinks this is HVS 5a to go and climb ‘Saul’s crack’(Roaches) then ‘Suicide wall’(Cratcliff), if these three climbs are the same grade the grading system needs re-evaluating.
Glen 17 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: VS 5a, not HVS. You can rest on every move and there is plenty of gear.
βeta?
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βeta: VS 5a, not HVS. You can rest on every move and there is plenty of gear.
sheffieldchris 30 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: have to agree with most people tecnically not a hard route but certainly one where you have to keep your head especially on the first section.I spent 5 minutes with no gear looking for a placement 3m up the thought sod it and carried on to a good nut slot. Did anyone else utter thank god when you get the jug after the harder section
βeta?
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βeta: have to agree with most people tecnically not a hard route but certainly one where you have to keep your head especially on the first section.I spent 5 minutes with no gear looking for a placement 3m up the thought sod it and carried on to a good nut slot. Did anyone else utter thank god when you get the jug after the harder section
SARS 25 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Low in the grade. Could be VS...
βeta?
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βeta: Low in the grade. Could be VS...
Richard 30 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Not strenuous. Nice moves between almost-rest positions. Wasn't convinced by my own gear though.
βeta?
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βeta: Not strenuous. Nice moves between almost-rest positions. Wasn't convinced by my own gear though.
Andrew Barker 29 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Great route, not strenuous. If you're confident on HVS then perhaps a good route not to lace ie learn to place as little gear as you need! A 10m route with bomber gear all the way doesn't need five pieces in the space of one metre!
βeta?
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βeta: Great route, not strenuous. If you're confident on HVS then perhaps a good route not to lace ie learn to place as little gear as you need! A 10m route with bomber gear all the way doesn't need five pieces in the space of one metre!
DannyC 26 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: my second hvs. not too bothered about the grade particularly but i'm pretty solid at vs and this felt harder than everything i've done before(though perhaps not 'the mall') if that counts for anything. lovely route. three stars.
βeta?
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βeta: my second hvs. not too bothered about the grade particularly but i'm pretty solid at vs and this felt harder than everything i've done before(though perhaps not 'the mall') if that counts for anything. lovely route. three stars.
MNA123 1 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: i meant low end HVS not VS
βeta?
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βeta: i meant low end HVS not VS
MNA123 1 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: climbed this on a very warm and moist summers evening without chalk so it probably felt harder then it should have been, i reckon its low end VS but still a very good route.
βeta?
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βeta: climbed this on a very warm and moist summers evening without chalk so it probably felt harder then it should have been, i reckon its low end VS but still a very good route.
Offwidth 25 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Nice route but if its HVS (which I dont think so) then Peter's Progress has to be too for consitency. A fairly tough VS low in the 5a grade with the worrying bit below the technical crux (IMHO)
βeta?
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βeta: Nice route but if its HVS (which I dont think so) then Peter's Progress has to be too for consitency. A fairly tough VS low in the 5a grade with the worrying bit below the technical crux (IMHO)
shaun walby 31 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Enjoyable lower end HVS ...fully agree with above comment, enjoy the route waffle about the grade later in the pub.
βeta?
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βeta: Enjoyable lower end HVS ...fully agree with above comment, enjoy the route waffle about the grade later in the pub.
GrahamD 25 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The VS/HVS debate shouldn't distract from the fact that this is a really nice route.
βeta?
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βeta: The VS/HVS debate shouldn't distract from the fact that this is a really nice route.
Lurkio 16 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: This was one of my first leads 12 months ago, and it felt every bit of HVS - had to rest on the gear half way up. Went back to it yesterday and found it sooo easy. So now I would agree it is low in the grade, but what a lovely route.
βeta?
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βeta: This was one of my first leads 12 months ago, and it felt every bit of HVS - had to rest on the gear half way up. Went back to it yesterday and found it sooo easy. So now I would agree it is low in the grade, but what a lovely route.
jamiemoss 12 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: If you have the right rack - small nuts and cams - and are quite cunning at placing them, then this route is extremely well protected. Think i got 5 (count 'em!) pieces in at bottom the the crux flake before launching up it (which is easier than it looks). More gear at top of flake, then massive breaks (cams) all the way to the top. Great fun.
 
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βeta: If you have the right rack - small nuts and cams - and are quite cunning at placing them, then this route is extremely well protected. Think i got 5 (count 'em!) pieces in at bottom the the crux flake before launching up it (which is easier than it looks). More gear at top of flake, then massive breaks (cams) all the way to the top. Great fun.
The old James turnbull 14 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: would say it is harder than most vs4c routes and probably right to be hvs 5a, just low in the grade as shown at the front of the guide, 2nd easiest hvs. still great stuff
βeta?
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βeta: would say it is harder than most vs4c routes and probably right to be hvs 5a, just low in the grade as shown at the front of the guide, 2nd easiest hvs. still great stuff
leon 3 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: really really easy hvs even on a cold wet day with numb hands. leaves you scratching your head for hours after trying to work out how you missed the 5a move. i didn't manage much decent gear placement though -rekon i would've decked during most of the climb.
βeta?
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βeta: really really easy hvs even on a cold wet day with numb hands. leaves you scratching your head for hours after trying to work out how you missed the 5a move. i didn't manage much decent gear placement though -rekon i would've decked during most of the climb.
mark s 4 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: vs 4c.not worth 3 stars either.
βeta?
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βeta: vs 4c.not worth 3 stars either.
Monk 26 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Goose, The start of this route is shared with a VS (Peter's Progress). The hard bit is higher up. The first gear is at about 3m so hardly a bold start either. A good, well protected route. Very easy HVS.
βeta?
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βeta: Goose, The start of this route is shared with a VS (Peter's Progress). The hard bit is higher up. The first gear is at about 3m so hardly a bold start either. A good, well protected route. Very easy HVS.
gooose 15 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: There's no gear near the bottom so that accounts for the HVS. I think the climbing is 4c at the most. Good route but 3 stars?
βeta?
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βeta: There's no gear near the bottom so that accounts for the HVS. I think the climbing is 4c at the most. Good route but 3 stars?
Jon Greengrass 17 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Great gear, great moves, great HVS grade breaker.
βeta?
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βeta: Great gear, great moves, great HVS grade breaker.
gav p 30 Sep, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: I got a lot of gear in, but most of it isn't that good. Very low in the grade - none of the moves feel hard for an HVS. A good route nonetheless.
βeta?
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βeta: I got a lot of gear in, but most of it isn't that good. Very low in the grade - none of the moves feel hard for an HVS. A good route nonetheless.
Robo 6 May, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Damn fine route. Take plenty of small wires. It gets easier the higher you go. Good first HVS?
βeta?
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βeta: Damn fine route. Take plenty of small wires. It gets easier the higher you go. Good first HVS?

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Votes cast 567
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Route of Interest

Brooks' Crack

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Burbage South Edge)