Rockfax Description
200m. The line of the thin solitary crack to the right of The Mousetrap cracks, some way left of the King Rat system, gives excellent sustained pitches of 5a with one move of 5c. Start just below and right of the easy groove of The Mousetrap.
1. 30m 4b Climb cracked slabs to under a chimney break.
2. 40m 5c Climb the chimney (crux), then continue up an awkward wall and follow the crack-line to under a big overhanging notch.
3. 10m 5a Move left and climb the arête, returning right to a big ledge.
4. 25m 5b Follow cracks over the first of a double bulge, then at the second bulge move 2m right and go up with difficulty, then cross slabs rightwards to a short left-facing corner.
5. 45m 5a Move left to a break and climb this to gain the slab above. Move left 2m and pull over a short wall into a corner. Follow the corner for 10m, then the rib on the right over two bulges, the second being turned on the left, then move right to a ledge.
6. 50m 4b Climb slabs to a crack on the right of a left-slanting overlap. Go up the crack, then a steepening corner and continue in the crack to easier ground.
FA I.Nicolson, D.Knowles, 18 Jun 1970
FA J.Lamb, P.Whillance (FFA), 1975 © Rockfax

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Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5

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