Fine and pumpy. Start at the diagonal crack as for Chepito. Move up easily, step right and then attack the spaced horizontal breaks on good holds to less steep but more technical ground up the groove and wall above. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Climbs the steepest part of the cliff above the beach.
Haul through the bulges and make a difficult move (and clip) into a shallow niche. Another difficult move out of the niche gains improving holds leading to the lower-off.
Has now been fully equipped (without permission). Originally climbed at E5 6a with an 8mm bolt and two pegs which have been removed or flattened.
Consensus grade is F7a.
M J Crocker, M Ward 10/Dec/1988.
West Country Climbs, Becky's ticklist, Brean Down Sports Climbs, Mineboyz Mega Projectz - Level: Crystal, West Country Climbs: Sport Routes Grades 5 to 7a+, Brean Down, South Side Sport, Recommended 7's, The road to Statement of Youth
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