The initial pitch takes a steep but well-protected corner; the second is less pressing but still provides plenty of interest right up until the end. Start on a small ledge below the corner.
1) 4c, 20m. Climb the corner and make a steep pull up left to a ledge below an overhang at 8m. Continue steeply up the corner on good holds to a ledge and belay at the faultline.
2) 4b, 20m. Pull through the overhang using a finger-crack and move up to a slim corner. Climb the sustained corner to a sloping ledge on the right at its end. Finish carefully. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
There is reports of some large loose blocks at 2/3 hieght. Take care until this has stabilised.
FA. Tony Wilmott, A.Heppenstall 18/Sep/1966.
WMC Boulder Ruckle Top20, West Country Climbs, Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, Orange Spot Swanage, South West VDiff-HVS, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes, South West Classic VS's, Dorset Routes that are worth doing
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