Loading Notifications...
40m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An outrageously-steep corner-line that is well protected but hard for the grade. Start on a small ledge below the corner.

1) 4c, 20m. Climb the corner and make a steep pull up left to a ledge below an overhang at 8m. Continue steeply up the corner on good holds to a ledge and belay at the fault-line.
2) 4b, 20m. Pull through the overhang using a finger-crack and move up to a slim corner. Climb the sustained corner to a sloping ledge on the right at its end. Finish carefully. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
There is reports of some large loose blocks at 2/3 hieght. Take care until this has stabilised.

FA. Tony Wilmott, A.Heppenstall 18/Sep/1966.

Ticklists

WMC Boulder Ruckle Top20, West Country Climbs, Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, Orange Spot Swanage, South West VDiff-HVS, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes, South West Classic VS's, Dorset Routes that are worth doing

Feedback

User Date Notes
Andre Clarke 12 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: First pitch a bit stiff for 4c but then again could be just because it was our warm up route and not a walk in park. Sea gulls nesting a break where belay is. They dive bombed my partner much to my shock and ever so slight amusement.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First pitch a bit stiff for 4c but then again could be just because it was our warm up route and not a walk in park. Sea gulls nesting a break where belay is. They dive bombed my partner much to my shock and ever so slight amusement.
Katsmiff 11 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Sea gull nesting on first belay point 11.05.2019
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Sea gull nesting on first belay point 11.05.2019
ian bryant 27 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: great climbing and great value
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: great climbing and great value
jtree03 2 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Lovely route! Just look down from the stance and see how much that first pitch overhangs! Crux is definitely the step left onto the arete below the wide crack on pitch one. Top pitch pleasantly exposed.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lovely route! Just look down from the stance and see how much that first pitch overhangs! Crux is definitely the step left onto the arete below the wide crack on pitch one. Top pitch pleasantly exposed.
Jon Greengrass 12 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Can be done in 1 mega pitch, (you can get a lie down rest on the belay ledge to recover from all the bridging) with a pair of 60m ropes and a load of long quickdraws to extend the runners under the bulges. Some right thrutchy moves to get through the first bulge, big fists help with the jamming and its a bit dusty though so feels quite insecure. The corner crack on what would have been the top pitch offers thin hand jamming on superb rough rock.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Can be done in 1 mega pitch, (you can get a lie down rest on the belay ledge to recover from all the bridging) with a pair of 60m ropes and a load of long quickdraws to extend the runners under the bulges. Some right thrutchy moves to get through the first bulge, big fists help with the jamming and its a bit dusty though so feels quite insecure. The corner crack on what would have been the top pitch offers thin hand jamming on superb rough rock.
Ewan 24 Jul, 2000 Show βeta
βeta: The first pitch felt quite hard for 4c. The move past the ledge on the arete, caused problems.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The first pitch felt quite hard for 4c. The move past the ledge on the arete, caused problems.

Logged Ascents

409 users have logged this
43 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 109
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 102
Votes cast 93
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Tensor II

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Guillemot Ledge)