The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
Start at a groove right of a short corner.
1) 6a, 18m. Climb steeply up the groove and make serious moves leftwards over a bulge to a rest beneath the roof. Fight across the 3m jamming crack, past a chockstone on the lip, and follow the easy crack above to the faultline.
2) 4c, 15m. Move up and traverse left to join Silhouette Arete. © Rockfax
FA. Martin Crocker, Jim Robertson 24/Jul/1983.
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Grade: E5 6a ***
(Boulder Ruckle)