UKH

33m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Two very different pitches - the first strenuous and the second more balancy and requiring good route finding. Possibly best climbed as a single pitch.
1) 4c, 15m. Climb the right-hand side of the massive block and then move left to ascend a crack to an awkward belay.
2) 4c, 18m. Surmount a bulge and trend rightwards past a ledge and small corner to another smaller ledge. Exit to the left of a small roof at the top. © Rockfax

FA. Richard Crewe, K.Winkworth, R.Kent 04/May/1969.

Ticklists

WMC Boulder Ruckle Top20 , Ultimate HVS ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
ian bryant 21 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: nice first pitch with quite a committing move up the corner chimney. reasonable belay can be had if you search for it. getting over the roof at the start of the second pitch is fairly easy and the second pitch is probably only 4b but there's little definite line to follow and gear can be a bit sparse unless you wander around to find it!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: nice first pitch with quite a committing move up the corner chimney. reasonable belay can be had if you search for it. getting over the roof at the start of the second pitch is fairly easy and the second pitch is probably only 4b but there's little definite line to follow and gear can be a bit sparse unless you wander around to find it!
A123 12 Jan, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Found the groove upto the break strenuous. On reaching the break it was difficult to find any really good pro. A couple of cams - sort of on rock sort of on soil! and a sling round a crumbly boss. Second pitch is run out but straightforward climbing for 4b/4c - fortunately given the dodgy belay below. Oh I probably did it all wrong !
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Found the groove upto the break strenuous. On reaching the break it was difficult to find any really good pro. A couple of cams - sort of on rock sort of on soil! and a sling round a crumbly boss. Second pitch is run out but straightforward climbing for 4b/4c - fortunately given the dodgy belay below. Oh I probably did it all wrong !

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
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High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 20
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 20
Votes cast 17
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest

The Maypole

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Lulworth)
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