The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
A varied route starting under the left end of a long roof at 10m.
1) 5b, 15m. Climb to the roof then take a crack on the left to the faultline. Hanging belay.
2) 5b, 20m. Follow a groove to a high roof. Swing right and over it leftwards finishing via a crack to the top. © Rockfax
FA. A.Strapcans, Gordon Jenkin 31.3.1979. FA. (Pitch 2) Crispin Waddy, J.Vlasto 28.3.1985.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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ian bryant | 30 Jul, 2007 |
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βeta: steady 5b all the way with decent gear. i guess it gets e2 because it's quite steep all the way up. some very suspect rock on roof of 2nd pitch. | βeta? | |
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βeta: steady 5b all the way with decent gear. i guess it gets e2 because it's quite steep all the way up. some very suspect rock on roof of 2nd pitch. |
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geoffgo21 | 13 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: Glad this is now E2 as it felt hard at E1, then it was a cold feb day and my fingers were frozen so can't comment on quality. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Glad this is now E2 as it felt hard at E1, then it was a cold feb day and my fingers were frozen so can't comment on quality. |
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Grade: E2 5b ***
(Boulder Ruckle)