The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
An established combination that starts up a flared groove in the wall just right of the abseil line (looking in).
1) 5a, 25m. Climb the flared groove to the faultline, passing a triangular roof on the right. Move left just above the overhang to gain an arete. Traverse diagonally right to belay below a wide crack. Awkward belays.
2) 4c, 15m. Move back left to a pedestal. From the top of the pedestal, climb the wall leftwards to a ledge. Move right and climb some blocks to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Climb the first pitch of Director's Groove, then move left to the ledge under the abseil point to belay. Move right to start the second pitch of Ashes and Diamonds.
SW Climbs - Swanage , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.)
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Iain Weymouth | 2 Oct, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: I've done the following variant a few times in one pitch avoiding the precarious mid-route belay. From the teeter left to the short arete at 15m carry on up and slightly left to a couple of large flakes. The short final wall is technical, protected with holds appearing when you need them. It looks like a logical line, good moves, well protected, HVS 5a. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I've done the following variant a few times in one pitch avoiding the precarious mid-route belay. From the teeter left to the short arete at 15m carry on up and slightly left to a couple of large flakes. The short final wall is technical, protected with holds appearing when you need them. It looks like a logical line, good moves, well protected, HVS 5a. |
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Boulder Ruckle)