Restricted Access

Superb crag with many different sections. The restriction affects the routes Star Wars to The Deerhunter.  

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Restriction, to protect nesting Choughs, affects the routes Star Wars to Deerhunter.  Restriction lifted for 2024 as of 27th May

 

 

 

 

50m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
This route is a wild, crazy trip into the bowels of the earth. It starts as for Quoin, and traverses into the low sea cave to the right, thereafter firing up through a massive blowhole system, to arrive at the top blowhole exit (see photo right). Big, big adventure! Please note that the route is much harder when it's soaking wet. In perfect conditions it may only be HVS, in normal conditions it is around E2, and in wild conditions it is even harder and inadvisable. Check the blowhole exit before you commit, as this gives you an idea of how wet the route is likely to be - it does occasionally dry out, especially with a strong, dry southerly blowing. Head torches very much required (as is an easy-going sense of humour). But then again, there's also that first ascent date!
1) 5b, 15m. Traverse rightwards into the cave, aiming for its apex. Ape into the cave to reach a good belay 4m inside, on a boulder choke.
2) 5a, 10m. Bridge inwards to where the cave widens. Committing but surprisingly easy moves across the left wall lead to a corner beneath daylight. Belay here.
3) 5a, 25m. Follow the corner above to one of the strangest finishes at Pembroke. © Rockfax

FA. P.Dearden, D.Scott-Maxwell 01/Apr/1995.

Ticklists

Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice , The troglodyte squeeze specials , Pembroke Rockfax Top 50 , Through Routes! , MIA logbook must haves! , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2 , Ultimate E2 ticklist , UK Lonely Leads , MUMC Ticklist , The Best of Pembroke , Type 2 Fun , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , James' Summer Ticklist , Becky's ticklist , UK Holiday Plans , Magical mysterious and unusual beasts of rock & myth , Thank god I don't have to do that again , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , Hard Very Silly - wet troglodytes , Pembroke ticket , Weird and Wonderful , Pembs '21 , Hilariously ‘Adventurous’ Routes , Wales Trip - 2022 , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , E1-E3 adventure routes: seacliffs, outcrops just not mountains.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Kiddie68 10 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Awesome route! Wild situations, and you have to hand it to the first ascensionists for their bravery and vision to find this route. I think we got it on the 'HVS conditions' day, with the rock only a bit slimy in places. I think this has more to do with recent clam seas than dry weather. P1 is a bit necky going around into the cave. P2 is confusing in the books. The first widening of the cave is not the place to attack the left wall. This happens much higher, after you have squirmed up the right wall to a ledge, where you can step easily across to the left wall and follow the obvious line of handholds. I belayed a few feet up the corner on 'bomber' pro: a thread behind a wedged piece of rusty ordnance! (plus some cams!)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Awesome route! Wild situations, and you have to hand it to the first ascensionists for their bravery and vision to find this route. I think we got it on the 'HVS conditions' day, with the rock only a bit slimy in places. I think this has more to do with recent clam seas than dry weather. P1 is a bit necky going around into the cave. P2 is confusing in the books. The first widening of the cave is not the place to attack the left wall. This happens much higher, after you have squirmed up the right wall to a ledge, where you can step easily across to the left wall and follow the obvious line of handholds. I belayed a few feet up the corner on 'bomber' pro: a thread behind a wedged piece of rusty ordnance! (plus some cams!)
HappyTrundler 13 Aug, 2011 Show βeta
βeta: One of the most traumatic climbing days ever. I had the old rockfax guide with it down at HVS. These days I consider myself a reasonably competent low e grade climber, however this felt more like caving than climbing. The second pitch was streaming in water so reversed back from the crux to the belay and reversed the first pitch. I would even suggest E3 just to discourage any aspiring E2 leaders...if it goes wrong down there you are in serious trouble...no one can throw a rope down and you can't abb off, there is no leader or second on this climb, in fact probably worse and more dangerous to second. I have no desire to go back in there again, ever.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: One of the most traumatic climbing days ever. I had the old rockfax guide with it down at HVS. These days I consider myself a reasonably competent low e grade climber, however this felt more like caving than climbing. The second pitch was streaming in water so reversed back from the crux to the belay and reversed the first pitch. I would even suggest E3 just to discourage any aspiring E2 leaders...if it goes wrong down there you are in serious trouble...no one can throw a rope down and you can't abb off, there is no leader or second on this climb, in fact probably worse and more dangerous to second. I have no desire to go back in there again, ever.
chris wyatt 2 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: One of the most dangerous undertakings I have ever done. Climbed far chimney instead of wall. 2nd pitch took 3 hours of complete concentration on slime. This is not climbing its caving. DONT DO IT!!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: One of the most dangerous undertakings I have ever done. Climbed far chimney instead of wall. 2nd pitch took 3 hours of complete concentration on slime. This is not climbing its caving. DONT DO IT!!!
DSM 17 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Although I've only done Preposterous Tales the once - on a dark damp day in April, without torches, chalk or prior knowledge of the route - I recall some debate as to the grade. Did it merit HVS or VS? It appears that one can be so wrong sometimes!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Although I've only done Preposterous Tales the once - on a dark damp day in April, without torches, chalk or prior knowledge of the route - I recall some debate as to the grade. Did it merit HVS or VS? It appears that one can be so wrong sometimes!
John Alcock 16 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: PS. You should include the High Life in the next guide. It's as good as Dream of White Horses. E1/2 5c.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: PS. You should include the High Life in the next guide. It's as good as Dream of White Horses. E1/2 5c.
John Alcock 16 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: One of Britain's finest climbing adventures. The grade varies wildly. On a damp dark December day with a big sea running and no torch it felt like E4. I've met people who've climbed it in perfect conditions who swear it's only HVS. Very high failure rate ( I've often watched retreated parties while doing neghbouring climbs.)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: One of Britain's finest climbing adventures. The grade varies wildly. On a damp dark December day with a big sea running and no torch it felt like E4. I've met people who've climbed it in perfect conditions who swear it's only HVS. Very high failure rate ( I've often watched retreated parties while doing neghbouring climbs.)
GrahamD 9 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: This route is a serious undertaking - far more so than other Pembroke routes of E2. Do not go near it if a big sea is running - even 50' up in the cave you will catch the waves and it ain't funny. The first traverse pitch is actually technically the hardest (about 5b), often damp and protection is adequate but not great until the chockstone is reached. After this, retreating is not really an option.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This route is a serious undertaking - far more so than other Pembroke routes of E2. Do not go near it if a big sea is running - even 50' up in the cave you will catch the waves and it ain't funny. The first traverse pitch is actually technically the hardest (about 5b), often damp and protection is adequate but not great until the chockstone is reached. After this, retreating is not really an option.

Logged Ascents

300 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Bosherston Head

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 315 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 42
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 40
Votes cast 62
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Silver Shadow

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Stackpole Head)

Loading Notifications...