Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

10m.

Rockfax Description
Great fun. A short but popular introduction to the flowstone experience. The start is the crux, but save something for the strenny finale. The start may have shed a hold. © Rockfax

FA. Jan Rostron, Pete Oxley 24/Aug/1995.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50 , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Orange Spot Portland , Portland sub 6b , Portland , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Portland Sendathon , Portland Olympian (6's) , The Dorset Sub 7a Silly Name Game , Portland Olympian - Need for Speed! , PO2021 , Portland scheming , Pongoose Portland Sport Climbing Gems , Portland Olympian , Dorset 2-3* 6a's

Feedback

User Date Notes
naylers 7 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Hard for the grade but great fun. Technical start, first few bolts can be tricky but goes on to a juggy exciting finish. As someone else has said shame it was a short climb.
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βeta: Hard for the grade but great fun. Technical start, first few bolts can be tricky but goes on to a juggy exciting finish. As someone else has said shame it was a short climb.
FabioM 15 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: hard 1st clip but route is amazing. Some delicate moves and a rewarding finish. Good warm up
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βeta: hard 1st clip but route is amazing. Some delicate moves and a rewarding finish. Good warm up
dycotiles 29 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Shame is so short.
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βeta: Shame is so short.
viking 2 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: brilliant route - quite hard for 6a, definately harder than Go With the Flow or Shit Happens...good technical start follow by a romp over the mini-tufa roof
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βeta: brilliant route - quite hard for 6a, definately harder than Go With the Flow or Shit Happens...good technical start follow by a romp over the mini-tufa roof
Wilbur 20 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: not bollox at all - short and sweet...
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βeta: not bollox at all - short and sweet...
Furzy Sleight 19 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Bollox route
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βeta: Bollox route
nugski 13 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Really enjoyable route and first outdoor lead completed in one. Didn't find the begining overly tricky but the area just below the overhang takes some could footwork! Nice!
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βeta: Really enjoyable route and first outdoor lead completed in one. Didn't find the begining overly tricky but the area just below the overhang takes some could footwork! Nice!
Sash.C 13 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Great fun, a nice technical start, followed by a great juggy overhang, and much like john i was so happy to get over it i missed the last bolt too!!
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βeta: Great fun, a nice technical start, followed by a great juggy overhang, and much like john i was so happy to get over it i missed the last bolt too!!
Alun 7 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Superb route, great moves, a must do in the area, 2 stars definately.
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βeta: Superb route, great moves, a must do in the area, 2 stars definately.
Alex More 17 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Would have been cool to climb it in original state, the sheet of flowstone at start is super slippy at mo, bit disappointing
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βeta: Would have been cool to climb it in original state, the sheet of flowstone at start is super slippy at mo, bit disappointing

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 164
Votes cast 145
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Reptile Smile

Grade: 6a+ ***
(Blacknor North)

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