Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

15m.

Rockfax Description
An enjoyable route passing a stuck-on coral lump at 6m. © Rockfax

FA. Nic Hellyer 22/Feb/1998.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Orange Spot Portland , UK "Orange Spot Sport" - The Best of The Rest? , Portland sub 6b , Portland , Portland Sendathon , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West (Sport) , Portland scheming , Portland Olympian , Dorset 2-3* 6a's

Feedback

User Date Notes
duncan 17 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The large block that forms the ledge at 3/4 height moves slightly. If it comes off it will land on the belaying area with potentially devastating consequences.
βeta?
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βeta: The large block that forms the ledge at 3/4 height moves slightly. If it comes off it will land on the belaying area with potentially devastating consequences.
earthkeptwarm 17 Oct, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Bit of a bland one for me.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Bit of a bland one for me.
Wilbur 20 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: My first 6a onsight. Tricky feet to gain the top of the lay-back crack and a tiny bit run out to the top but a really enjoyable climb. I'd say 6a was the right grade...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: My first 6a onsight. Tricky feet to gain the top of the lay-back crack and a tiny bit run out to the top but a really enjoyable climb. I'd say 6a was the right grade...
A123 22 Dec, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Yup great route. Not difficult but a bit sustained.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Yup great route. Not difficult but a bit sustained.
The Grist 22 Jul, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic route. But tough for a 6a - more run out than I was used to.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic route. But tough for a 6a - more run out than I was used to.

Logged Ascents

1674 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Blacknor South

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Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 153
Votes cast 167
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Pregnant Pause

Grade: 6a+ ***
(Blacknor Central)

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