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Report of a lose bolt June 2023 - “One of the staples wobbles. As looking out at the sea it is the top left staple on the flat top of rock. This is directly above the iron ladder which gives access from Sharbutts Quarry to Sacred Angel Area”

from 14/06/2023

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

22m.

Rockfax Description
Superb flowstone formations on the fingery and technical upper wall. Climb the fist-sized, overhanging crack to a point where the enticing drape of flowstone on the right can be accessed. Climb slightly rightwards up the tricky flowstone whose difficulty gradually eases. © Rockfax

FA. Damian Cook 12/Sep/1992.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50 , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Red Spot Portland 2016 , Portland sub 6b , Portland , Dylan’s ticklist , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Portland Sendathon , Portland Olympian (6's, max stars) , Portland Olympian , Portland scheming , Pongoose Portland Sport Climbing Gems

Feedback

User Date Notes
Noemie Roux 31 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Stopped just beyond what seemed the crux, too tired to fully commit but great route
βeta?
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βeta: Stopped just beyond what seemed the crux, too tired to fully commit but great route
Daztheraz 18 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Good route, fun crack followed by flowstone, a bit run out especially if tou miss the last anchor
βeta?
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βeta: Good route, fun crack followed by flowstone, a bit run out especially if tou miss the last anchor
catt 31 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: agreed, looks a bit bold, but the climbing is so good and positive, and i think it adds a lot to the challenge of the climb. i think about the same difficulty as reptile smile and if not for that this would be the 3 star classic of the area around this grade.
βeta?
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βeta: agreed, looks a bit bold, but the climbing is so good and positive, and i think it adds a lot to the challenge of the climb. i think about the same difficulty as reptile smile and if not for that this would be the 3 star classic of the area around this grade.
Wilbur 30 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Looked run-out between bolts 2 and 3 but didn't feel it when climbing (maybe because the crack wasn't greasy!). Nice flowstone climbing high-up.
βeta?
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βeta: Looked run-out between bolts 2 and 3 but didn't feel it when climbing (maybe because the crack wasn't greasy!). Nice flowstone climbing high-up.
nealh 29 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: for my money best 6a+ on Portland with so many variations I never get bored, needs its own belay though
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: for my money best 6a+ on Portland with so many variations I never get bored, needs its own belay though

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Voting
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 147
Votes cast 145
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Trad Free World

Grade: 6b ***
(Wallsend South)

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