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22m.

Rockfax Description
A well-established and testing classic that features climbing on an amazing set of flowstone organ pipes. Move up easily rightwards, and pass a thread (sometimes missing) to the first bolt. Climb the flowstone pipes which gradually ease off after some difficult pulls low down. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 12/Sep/1992.

Ticklists

Natalie's Challenges, ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50, West Country Climbs, Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, 3 Star Portland, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Orange Spot Portland, ULMC Classics, The best 50 UK "Orange Spot" Sports Routes?, Portland 3 stars grades 6 and below, Portland sub 6b, Portland, The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist, Portland, Dorset, West Country Climbs: Sport Routes Grades 5 to 7a+, Portland Trip, CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock, Portland Olympian (6's, max stars), UK Flowstone, Portland Olympian - Need for Speed!

Feedback

User Date Notes
Noemie 1 Sep Show βeta
βeta: Chuffed to get it first go! Was going to say take many times beyond the crux but I pushed myself and commited 100%
βeta?
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βeta: Chuffed to get it first go! Was going to say take many times beyond the crux but I pushed myself and commited 100%
aziule 8 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Loved the first part of the route, but fell hard on the crux at the last bolt before the top, and sprained my ankle. I felt the move was quite scary as you have to commit yourself on pumping holds with very slippery feet.
 
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βeta: Loved the first part of the route, but fell hard on the crux at the last bolt before the top, and sprained my ankle. I felt the move was quite scary as you have to commit yourself on pumping holds with very slippery feet.
Mischa Resnick 21 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Took a massive whopper at the top. Went right and couldn’t find anything good enough to hold in order to clip the last bolt. Caught my breath and finished it, taking the line to the left of the bolt, which was much more manageable, but not obvious from my pint of view.
 
Show beta
βeta: Took a massive whopper at the top. Went right and couldn’t find anything good enough to hold in order to clip the last bolt. Caught my breath and finished it, taking the line to the left of the bolt, which was much more manageable, but not obvious from my pint of view.
JimboWizbo 24 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: A foothold snapped off at the start, route not affected
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A foothold snapped off at the start, route not affected
Alex More 5 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Beauty, climb it as the sun sets and the rock glows!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Beauty, climb it as the sun sets and the rock glows!
andybirtwistle 15 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Some bizzare comments about what is really a great climb of its type.I can only infer that many of the writers haven't climbed on tufas or flowstone.First bolt missing(sling) and second bolt is not in the best place but the climbing is great. Last weekend was my first visit to Portland and its brilliant!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Some bizzare comments about what is really a great climb of its type.I can only infer that many of the writers haven't climbed on tufas or flowstone.First bolt missing(sling) and second bolt is not in the best place but the climbing is great. Last weekend was my first visit to Portland and its brilliant!
iccle_eve 14 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: wicked climb technical (especially if small) love it
βeta?
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βeta: wicked climb technical (especially if small) love it
Wilbur 2 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: stiff at the grade. pregnant pause felt like a path after doing this! benchmark 6a+ and a fantastic route to boot..
βeta?
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βeta: stiff at the grade. pregnant pause felt like a path after doing this! benchmark 6a+ and a fantastic route to boot..
a pedley 30 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: There is just no pleasing some people, Tufa climbing is a rarity in this country and is obviously alien to some people, i thought it was a great route,and right for the grade!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There is just no pleasing some people, Tufa climbing is a rarity in this country and is obviously alien to some people, i thought it was a great route,and right for the grade!!
dixiechick 6 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I had long awaited doing reptile smile having seen it done afew times in the past. I loved every second of it. I fell off at the top after being thugged out after a whole days leading up to it. It is a brilliant route and deserves every star it has. I cant help thinking that it should be 6b but anyway its brilliant value for 6a plus!! Next time i wont fall off!!
βeta?
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βeta: I had long awaited doing reptile smile having seen it done afew times in the past. I loved every second of it. I fell off at the top after being thugged out after a whole days leading up to it. It is a brilliant route and deserves every star it has. I cant help thinking that it should be 6b but anyway its brilliant value for 6a plus!! Next time i wont fall off!!
TRNovice 14 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: There are a couple of in situ slings threaded in the area where the first bolt was (14-Nov-2004)
βeta?
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βeta: There are a couple of in situ slings threaded in the area where the first bolt was (14-Nov-2004)
nealh 29 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: talk about the fast food generation! No its not perfect, but the rock is pretty unique for the u.k. the missing bolt was pulled from scales not reptile smile years ago by a visiting climber who wanted to test the strength of bolts on tufa- he went away happy.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: talk about the fast food generation! No its not perfect, but the rock is pretty unique for the u.k. the missing bolt was pulled from scales not reptile smile years ago by a visiting climber who wanted to test the strength of bolts on tufa- he went away happy.
climbingrich 5 Aug, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: agreed, i found it very enjoyable, if a little high in the grade, if only because i felt run out as hell for a 6c between the last two bolts. great fun though
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: agreed, i found it very enjoyable, if a little high in the grade, if only because i felt run out as hell for a 6c between the last two bolts. great fun though
Ewan 3 Jun, 2001 Show βeta
βeta: Nice rock and interesting holds, but an overrated experience.
βeta?
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βeta: Nice rock and interesting holds, but an overrated experience.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 357
Votes cast 331
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
DWS
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Stalker's Zone

Grade: 6a+ ***
(Wallsend South)