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USER ATTENTION

Report of a lose bolt June 2023 - “One of the staples wobbles. As looking out at the sea it is the top left staple on the flat top of rock. This is directly above the iron ladder which gives access from Sharbutts Quarry to Sacred Angel Area”

from 14/06/2023

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

21m.

Rockfax Description
A top crack climb that is both fun and pumpy. Keep an eye out for the bolt hidden within the crack. © Rockfax

FA. Simon Cook 08/Nov/1992.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Orange Spot Portland , UK "Orange Spot Sport" - The Best of The Rest? , Portland sub 6b , Portland , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Portland Olympian (6's) , Work you fucking piece of shit , Thomas & Alex Portland Olympian Oct22 , Dorset 2-3* 6a's

Feedback

User Date Notes
Eloise Horsfield 2 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: **Chicks nesting in cracks near the bottom**. Please be careful not to disturb them
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: **Chicks nesting in cracks near the bottom**. Please be careful not to disturb them
aziule 8 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Very nice and pleasant route. Many options are available when climbing the crack, so no matter your style, you will have lots of fun!
Show beta
βeta: Very nice and pleasant route. Many options are available when climbing the crack, so no matter your style, you will have lots of fun!
AJM 28 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Just be careful with the quickdraw at the lip as it sits over the rock a bit
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Just be careful with the quickdraw at the lip as it sits over the rock a bit

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor North

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Voting
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 154
Votes cast 138
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Underage

Grade: 6a ***
(Coastguard South)

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