UKH

20m.

Rockfax Description
A direct and fingery testpiece. Keep right at the overlap. © Rockfax

FA. Martin Crocker 26/Mar/1989.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Portland

Feedback

User Date Notes
Dandan 3 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Crux move at the overlap can be done using a shallow undercut for the left hand so that you don't need to lunge for the greasy holds above and can do the move static. From the small central flake/crack undercut with the left hand, reach the right hand up to the shallow pocket above you to the right (finding a thumb catch helps). Get both feet on the pair of dark/greasy footholds either side of the crack line. Reach left hand under the overhanging block to your left and find the undercut. Step right foot up and through to tiny flowstone rib, and move left foot out left to a small dark nubbin. Stand up on right foot, right hip in, reach right hand up and over to right-most part of the break above. Swap left foot to where right is, and bring left hand up to hold next to right hand. Sort feet out and move up to better holds. The undercut had very little chalk on it so i'm guessing some people miss it.
 
Show beta
βeta: Crux move at the overlap can be done using a shallow undercut for the left hand so that you don't need to lunge for the greasy holds above and can do the move static. From the small central flake/crack undercut with the left hand, reach the right hand up to the shallow pocket above you to the right (finding a thumb catch helps). Get both feet on the pair of dark/greasy footholds either side of the crack line. Reach left hand under the overhanging block to your left and find the undercut. Step right foot up and through to tiny flowstone rib, and move left foot out left to a small dark nubbin. Stand up on right foot, right hip in, reach right hand up and over to right-most part of the break above. Swap left foot to where right is, and bring left hand up to hold next to right hand. Sort feet out and move up to better holds. The undercut had very little chalk on it so i'm guessing some people miss it.
Ben Stokes 25 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: No where near as fingery as some Battleship Edge or Cuttings routes of a similar grade. Good climbing throughout and don't think the route's in the bag until you actually get to the LO...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: No where near as fingery as some Battleship Edge or Cuttings routes of a similar grade. Good climbing throughout and don't think the route's in the bag until you actually get to the LO...

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Voting
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 25
Votes cast 27
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
DNF
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest

Ariane V

Grade: 7b ***
(Wallsend South)
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