Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

20m.

Rockfax Description
A long, classy route with an exciting finish through the roof. © Rockfax

FA. Martin Crocker 23/Apr/1989.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Classic Portland 7as (2* +) , Portland , Portland 7a/+ , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock

Feedback

User Date Notes
Ben Stokes 11 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Does anyone read my comments above?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Does anyone read my comments above?
hotsteve33 6 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A really nice route which you think you have onsighted, as you reach round the lip, and are greeted with huge jugs. However, you then have a ridiculous reach for poor holds to reach the belay!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A really nice route which you think you have onsighted, as you reach round the lip, and are greeted with huge jugs. However, you then have a ridiculous reach for poor holds to reach the belay!
John Alcock 26 Jan, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Lovely climbing finishes with desperate 6b pull to belay. Helen and I couldn't do it, even on top rope. Did Crocker reach through? If you're as useless as us you might want to take a sling to stand in to reach the belay.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lovely climbing finishes with desperate 6b pull to belay. Helen and I couldn't do it, even on top rope. Did Crocker reach through? If you're as useless as us you might want to take a sling to stand in to reach the belay.

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Guidebooks for Blacknor Far South

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Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 31
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Kinaesthesia

Grade: 7a+ ***
(White Hole)

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