The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
2022 Peregrine nesting in Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.
At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.
Rockfax Description
A Blacknor Far South favourite. Start at a flowstone crack. The crux takes a bit of working out. © Rockfax
FA. Steve Taylor 02/Feb/1991.
Dorset Sport Climbs A-Z , ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50 , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Orange Spot Portland , Portland sub 6b , Portland , UK "Orange Spot Sport" - The Best of The Rest? , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Portland Sendathon , Portland Olympian (6's) , Portland Olympian (6's, max stars) , Portland Olympian - Need for Speed! , Dorset 2-3* 6a's
User | Date | Notes | ||
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aiyer | 1 May, 2021 |
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βeta: Birds nesting at the break by the penultimate bolt. Avoid if possible for now... | βeta? | |
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βeta: Birds nesting at the break by the penultimate bolt. Avoid if possible for now... |
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mosey101 | 14 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: One of the best climbs I've ever been on | βeta? | |
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βeta: One of the best climbs I've ever been on |
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viking | 31 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: lovely route - my first 6a onsight - loved the jug hauling last third after the technical crux | βeta? | |
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βeta: lovely route - my first 6a onsight - loved the jug hauling last third after the technical crux |
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Wilbur | 30 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: Flashed it on saturday - middle is quite tough. What a great route though - worth 3 stars. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Flashed it on saturday - middle is quite tough. What a great route though - worth 3 stars. |
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Alex More | 27 Nov, 2004 |
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βeta: Great route, tough side pull at mid-height but the top is great full of jugs | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great route, tough side pull at mid-height but the top is great full of jugs |
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Ben Stokes | 30 Sep, 2004 |
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βeta: A nice contrasting pitch with a great crux move which is easy when you have done it a few times. | βeta? | |
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βeta: A nice contrasting pitch with a great crux move which is easy when you have done it a few times. |
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Grade: 6a ***
(Coastguard South)