Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

18m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the fingery lower wall on positive but hard-to-see holds to the break. Follow the easier enticing groove to finish. © Rockfax

FA. Neal Heanes Mar/2002.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Natalie's Challenges , Portland sub 6b , Portland , Portland Sendathon

Feedback

User Date Notes
Derry 18 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Possibly a Peregrine nesting in the ledges above. 18/04/22. Launched, flew past, checked us out and landed twice while climbing routes to the right.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Possibly a Peregrine nesting in the ledges above. 18/04/22. Launched, flew past, checked us out and landed twice while climbing routes to the right.
Nic 5 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: One of Gary Gibson's I think - 7a/b ish
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: One of Gary Gibson's I think - 7a/b ish
stow 5 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Anyone know anything about the new route to the left of fandango?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Anyone know anything about the new route to the left of fandango?
matt perks 9 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Sustained on the lower wall, balancey in the upper groove; a really nice route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Sustained on the lower wall, balancey in the upper groove; a really nice route.
John Alcock 3 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Good fun and sensibly bolted. Lorne found a reachy move on the lower wall.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good fun and sensibly bolted. Lorne found a reachy move on the lower wall.
Morgan Woods 31 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: tricky little section at the crux and the groove above can be tricky.....overall a good climb
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: tricky little section at the crux and the groove above can be tricky.....overall a good climb

Logged Ascents

232 users have logged this

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Voting
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 34
Votes cast 34
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
No Place for Mambas

Grade: 6b ***
(Wallsend South)

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