Restricted Access
The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
2022 Peregrine nesting in Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.
At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.
Rockfax Description
Superb fingery flowstone climbing that has a technical lower wall and a powerful finish over the bulge. © Rockfax
FA. Damian Cook 06/Mar/1993.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50 , 3 Star Portland , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , Portland , The Miscampbell/Stephenson recovery tour.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Gabbott987 | 8 Apr, 2023 |
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βeta: Now very polished this route is a very contrived line.... I wouldn't give it any stars at all! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Now very polished this route is a very contrived line.... I wouldn't give it any stars at all! |
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| Ben Stokes | 27 Sep, 2009 |
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βeta: I have to agree with Andy - IMHO the above average quality of the headwall is not enough to make up for the poor condition of the middle section. There are routes more worthy of three stars than this. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I have to agree with Andy - IMHO the above average quality of the headwall is not enough to make up for the poor condition of the middle section. There are routes more worthy of three stars than this. |
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| matt perks | 29 Jan, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: After clipping the 2nd (or was it 3rd) bolt, I couldn't find any way straight through. The only reasonable solution seemed to slap out left and climb up a slight groove to the overlap, moving back right in passing this overlap. Certainly good moves but I didn't think it low in the grade - fair 7b but not obvious to on-sight. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: After clipping the 2nd (or was it 3rd) bolt, I couldn't find any way straight through. The only reasonable solution seemed to slap out left and climb up a slight groove to the overlap, moving back right in passing this overlap. Certainly good moves but I didn't think it low in the grade - fair 7b but not obvious to on-sight. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Blacknor Central
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Esmeralda's Monkey
Grade: 7b ***
(Beeston Cliff)