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The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

25m.

Rockfax Description
A great route; the tufas are steep and juggy, and the climbing is more exposed than your average Portland 6c. © Rockfax

FA. Mike Robertson 08/Dec/1995.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Red Spot Portland 2016 , Nat's Summer 2016 Ticklist , Portland , Spanish crew 2018 , Gwenland , Portland Trip , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Work you fucking piece of shit , Pongoose Portland Sport Climbing Gems

Feedback

User Date Notes
Rockmonkey1977 18 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The very large molar tooth like hold at about 2/3 height sounded very ‘hollow’ (ie detached). The slightly less good stuck on hold behind it seems fine though. Use long Qd’s for the bottom half to avoid drag.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The very large molar tooth like hold at about 2/3 height sounded very ‘hollow’ (ie detached). The slightly less good stuck on hold behind it seems fine though. Use long Qd’s for the bottom half to avoid drag.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor Central

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Voting
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 52
Votes cast 55
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
No Man is an Island

Grade: 6c ***
(Battleship Back Cliff)

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