UKH

20m.

Rockfax Description
A popular little gem that has a cunning finish. © Rockfax

FA. Mike Robertson 17/Feb/1993.

Ticklists

Natalie's Challenges, ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50, Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Orange Spot Portland, The best 50 UK "Orange Spot" Sports Routes?, Portland sub 6b, Portland, Gwenland, Portland Trip, CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock, Portland Olympian (6's), The Dorset Sub 7a Silly Name Game, Work you fucking piece of shit, Sam and Jerome (Portland Olympian)

Feedback

User Date Notes
Iain Weymouth 31 Mar Show βeta
βeta: Lovely flowstone and concretions with a problematic final move to the anchor. An excellent route.
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βeta: Lovely flowstone and concretions with a problematic final move to the anchor. An excellent route.
nugski 18 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: nices climb i have done as a 6a. was such a flowing climb although easy for a 6a. mantle at the top was a little tricky but nothing to challenging.
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βeta: nices climb i have done as a 6a. was such a flowing climb although easy for a 6a. mantle at the top was a little tricky but nothing to challenging.
viking 15 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: ended up lunging over the ledge at the top after not spotting the cunning finish...probably made it a solid 6a rather than soft - great route though, nice moves, no crux but several interesting moves to make
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βeta: ended up lunging over the ledge at the top after not spotting the cunning finish...probably made it a solid 6a rather than soft - great route though, nice moves, no crux but several interesting moves to make
Wilbur 13 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: The rock isn't excellent at the bottom - i managed to rip a hold off the size of a dinner plate, narrowly missing my belayer. Stayed on it though for the onsight! Tricky top makes it fair 6a i thought. Laughed my ass off watching my mate do a belly flop onto the ledge after completley missing the 'cunning finish' :o)
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βeta: The rock isn't excellent at the bottom - i managed to rip a hold off the size of a dinner plate, narrowly missing my belayer. Stayed on it though for the onsight! Tricky top makes it fair 6a i thought. Laughed my ass off watching my mate do a belly flop onto the ledge after completley missing the 'cunning finish' :o)
Fidget 18 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: What a lovely route! I'd give it three stars, but then that would attract traffic so two is fine ;-) I onsighted it clean so it's definately no harder than easy 6a. The finish throws you if you're not expecting it.
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βeta: What a lovely route! I'd give it three stars, but then that would attract traffic so two is fine ;-) I onsighted it clean so it's definately no harder than easy 6a. The finish throws you if you're not expecting it.
Alex More 17 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Classic route, climbed it with a sprained ankle, (found out later). Felt in the 5+ range, just real positive. Great ledge at top to stand and contemplate life, does anyone else know of another ledge like it?
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βeta: Classic route, climbed it with a sprained ankle, (found out later). Felt in the 5+ range, just real positive. Great ledge at top to stand and contemplate life, does anyone else know of another ledge like it?
nealh 29 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: No Lizzy, Do It!
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βeta: No Lizzy, Do It!

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Voting
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 197
Votes cast 179
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Fear's Younger Brother

Grade: 6a ***
(Blacknor Far South)
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