Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

20m.

Rockfax Description
A popular little gem that has a cunning finish. © Rockfax

FA. Mike Robertson 17/Feb/1993.

Ticklists

Natalie's Challenges , ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50 , Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012 , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Orange Spot Portland , The best 50 UK "Orange Spot" Sports Routes? , Portland sub 6b , Portland , Gwenland , Portland Trip , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Portland Olympian (6's) , The Dorset Sub 7a Silly Name Game , Work you fucking piece of shit , Sam and Jerome (Portland Olympian) , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West (Sport) , Portland Olympian , Pongoose Portland Sport Climbing Gems , Dorset 2-3* 6a's

Feedback

User Date Notes
Iain Weymouth 31 Mar, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Lovely flowstone and concretions with a problematic final move to the anchor. An excellent route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lovely flowstone and concretions with a problematic final move to the anchor. An excellent route.
nugski 18 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: nices climb i have done as a 6a. was such a flowing climb although easy for a 6a. mantle at the top was a little tricky but nothing to challenging.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: nices climb i have done as a 6a. was such a flowing climb although easy for a 6a. mantle at the top was a little tricky but nothing to challenging.
viking 15 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: ended up lunging over the ledge at the top after not spotting the cunning finish...probably made it a solid 6a rather than soft - great route though, nice moves, no crux but several interesting moves to make
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: ended up lunging over the ledge at the top after not spotting the cunning finish...probably made it a solid 6a rather than soft - great route though, nice moves, no crux but several interesting moves to make
Wilbur 13 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: The rock isn't excellent at the bottom - i managed to rip a hold off the size of a dinner plate, narrowly missing my belayer. Stayed on it though for the onsight! Tricky top makes it fair 6a i thought. Laughed my ass off watching my mate do a belly flop onto the ledge after completley missing the 'cunning finish' :o)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The rock isn't excellent at the bottom - i managed to rip a hold off the size of a dinner plate, narrowly missing my belayer. Stayed on it though for the onsight! Tricky top makes it fair 6a i thought. Laughed my ass off watching my mate do a belly flop onto the ledge after completley missing the 'cunning finish' :o)
Fidget 18 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: What a lovely route! I'd give it three stars, but then that would attract traffic so two is fine ;-) I onsighted it clean so it's definately no harder than easy 6a. The finish throws you if you're not expecting it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: What a lovely route! I'd give it three stars, but then that would attract traffic so two is fine ;-) I onsighted it clean so it's definately no harder than easy 6a. The finish throws you if you're not expecting it.
Alex More 17 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Classic route, climbed it with a sprained ankle, (found out later). Felt in the 5+ range, just real positive. Great ledge at top to stand and contemplate life, does anyone else know of another ledge like it?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Classic route, climbed it with a sprained ankle, (found out later). Felt in the 5+ range, just real positive. Great ledge at top to stand and contemplate life, does anyone else know of another ledge like it?
nealh 29 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: No Lizzy, Do It!
Show beta
βeta: No Lizzy, Do It!

Logged Ascents

1494 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Blacknor Central

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 255 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 205
Votes cast 189
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Troubled water's - extension

Grade: 6a S1 ***
(Fisherman's Ledge)

Loading Notifications...