Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

28m.

Rockfax Description
A really good, long wall pitch on fine rock. Start at a crackline in the lower wall. Climb the gradually-steepening wall to a thrilling finish. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 18/Jun/1995.

Ticklists

A Guide for Progress in Dorset , ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50 , West Country Climbs , 3 Star Portland , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Red Spot Portland 2016 , Portland 3 stars grades 6 and below , Portland , Spanish crew 2018 , Gwenland , West Country Climbs: Sport Routes Grades 5 to 7a+ , Portland Trip , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , The Dorset Sub 7a Silly Name Game , The post lockdown local list , Portland Olympian , Portland scheming , Pongoose Portland Sport Climbing Gems

Feedback

User Date Notes
KAckroyd 1 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: 13 bolts, 14 draws required including one for the top. If you stand by the crack at the base of the route, it should be the line of bolts straight up, you can always see the next bolt.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 13 bolts, 14 draws required including one for the top. If you stand by the crack at the base of the route, it should be the line of bolts straight up, you can always see the next bolt.
ZacMoss 27 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Have a look at some of the photos attached to this climb when trying to find it on the wall, there been a lot more bolts added to this wall since the guide book was published!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Have a look at some of the photos attached to this climb when trying to find it on the wall, there been a lot more bolts added to this wall since the guide book was published!!
Gazmataz 4 Jan, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Climbers club guide says ten bolts but it’s wrong. It’s more like 13 or 14 I think. Either someone’s added bolts or they were wrong to begin with.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Climbers club guide says ten bolts but it’s wrong. It’s more like 13 or 14 I think. Either someone’s added bolts or they were wrong to begin with.
John Alcock 6 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Classic, but pumpy. Not a route for the end of the day.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Classic, but pumpy. Not a route for the end of the day.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor Central

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Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 113
Votes cast 105
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Bouldered
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Ausfahrt

Grade: 6b+ ***
(Blacknor Central)

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