Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

22m.

Rockfax Description
A super climb up a strong natural line. Some strangely shaped holds aid progress on the powerful crux section. © Rockfax

FA. J.Walker 02/Feb/1993.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Red Spot Portland 2016 , Portland sub 6b , Portland , Portland Trip , Portland Sendathon , Work you fucking piece of shit , Portland Pyramid (2024)

Feedback

User Date Notes
Paddy Bos Coe 6 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Lovely climb. So good I did it twice. Pumpy through the bulge. Juggy!
Show beta
βeta: Lovely climb. So good I did it twice. Pumpy through the bulge. Juggy!
Rin C 17 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: One of the best routes on the wall - a lot of fun
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: One of the best routes on the wall - a lot of fun
ksjs 23 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: lush! worth 3 stars. low in the grade if youre strong. everything that looks positive is including the 'stuck-on' shield / flake - very pleasing climbing
Show beta
βeta: lush! worth 3 stars. low in the grade if youre strong. everything that looks positive is including the 'stuck-on' shield / flake - very pleasing climbing
Wilbur 2 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: crux is easier if you're a boulderer at heart!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: crux is easier if you're a boulderer at heart!
Morgan Woods 31 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: great moves at the crux...the holds aren't great but they get better....can do a thuggy dyno to get the obvious detatched flake or if you have the technique do it statically......looks runout between the last bolt and anchor but the climbing is easy.
Show beta
βeta: great moves at the crux...the holds aren't great but they get better....can do a thuggy dyno to get the obvious detatched flake or if you have the technique do it statically......looks runout between the last bolt and anchor but the climbing is easy.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor Central

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Voting
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 83
Votes cast 84
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
No Place for Mambas

Grade: 6b ***
(Wallsend South)

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