Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

28m.

Rockfax Description
A major crackline that is both strenuous and sustained. © Rockfax

FA. Tim Dunsby 03/Oct/1992.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland sub 6b , Portland , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Portland Sendathon , Work you fucking piece of shit , Dorset 2-3* 6a's

Feedback

User Date Notes
Joep88 23 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Would say it is 6a+, however it is: long, run-out, and exposed. All adds up to quite a route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Would say it is 6a+, however it is: long, run-out, and exposed. All adds up to quite a route.
a_radiohead_fan 9 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: easy peasy. never felt hard at all. and the bolts never felt spaced to me although compared to other routes on the island they actually are.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: easy peasy. never felt hard at all. and the bolts never felt spaced to me although compared to other routes on the island they actually are.
Pete 17 Jan, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Did this for the second time on a cold January day, which probably made it feel harder, but I would still say top end 6a+ compared with others of a similar grade. Fantastic crack climb though. Almost a pity its bolted as you could lace it with gear and would make an excellent trad climb.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Did this for the second time on a cold January day, which probably made it feel harder, but I would still say top end 6a+ compared with others of a similar grade. Fantastic crack climb though. Almost a pity its bolted as you could lace it with gear and would make an excellent trad climb.
tomrainbow 7 May, 2001 Show βeta
βeta: The bolts seemed very spaced on this route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The bolts seemed very spaced on this route.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor Central

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Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 54
Votes cast 51
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Stalker's Zone

Grade: 6a+ ***
(Wallsend South)

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