Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

28m.

Rockfax Description
A first class climb that features some great climbing on very good rock. Start just to the right of a crack. Climb up to a steep groove and continue with difficulty to a less steep, but still high-quality finish. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 18/Jun/1995.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50 , West Country Climbs , 3 Star Portland , South coast sport/DWS ticklist , Red Spot Portland 2016 , Nat's Summer 2016 Ticklist , Portland , Spanish crew 2018 , West Country Climbs: Sport Routes Grades 5 to 7a+ , Portland Trip , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Portland Sendathon , Portland Olympian , Work you fucking piece of shit , Portland Projects 6c-7a+ , Pongoose Portland Sport Climbing Gems

Feedback

User Date Notes
CammersClimbs 21 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Beautiful route. 28m of adrenaline fuelled climbing. Difficult crux with limited features.... use a 60m rope!
Show beta
βeta: Beautiful route. 28m of adrenaline fuelled climbing. Difficult crux with limited features.... use a 60m rope!
Compo 21 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Great climbing, superb line and rough unpolished rock. A cracking 3* pitch. Low in the grade.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great climbing, superb line and rough unpolished rock. A cracking 3* pitch. Low in the grade.
ksjs 23 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: for 6B+ crux is relatively technical; not that easy to unlock correct sequence / find best holds. a superb, balanced route though: strong first half / delicate second half including quite a scary step to make the belay
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: for 6B+ crux is relatively technical; not that easy to unlock correct sequence / find best holds. a superb, balanced route though: strong first half / delicate second half including quite a scary step to make the belay
richardh 13 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Thought it was solid 6c, with an awkward crux, not a good first 6c IMHO, there are plenty easier ones around at Portland.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Thought it was solid 6c, with an awkward crux, not a good first 6c IMHO, there are plenty easier ones around at Portland.
Chris Shorter 1 Oct, 2001 Show βeta
βeta: This is one of a number of routes on this bit of cliff that deserve the full three stars. felt like full 6c to me.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This is one of a number of routes on this bit of cliff that deserve the full three stars. felt like full 6c to me.
tomrainbow 22 Apr, 2001 Show βeta
βeta: This feels like a 3 star 6b+ - first class climbing.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This feels like a 3 star 6b+ - first class climbing.

Logged Ascents

528 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Blacknor Central

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 248 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 99
Votes cast 108
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Opposites Attract

Grade: 6c ***
(Wallsend South)

Loading Notifications...