105m, 3 pitches. A link-up no one wanted, at a place no one climbs. A blend of Verger and Antichrist, climbed by mistake to avoid birds. Crack excavation tool essential.

1) 4c. 20m. Verger P1.
2) 5a/b. 40m. Continue until mid way point of Verger P2. Traverse down and left to the obvious crack system leading out to the arete (new climbing, safe and technical crux, 5b). Climb the arete until you are pushed around into Antichrist's second pitch, becomes XS here really. Continue with no worthwhile gear to the second belay at the small holly tree.
Okay-ish tree, okay nuts and cams belay.
3) 5a. 45m (30m to top of cliff). As for Antichrist to the top, serious and increasingly loose and vegetated. Bushwhack to a good tree way back from the edge.

Antichrist sections very loose and bold and deserves XS in current condition really. Hilariously probably only 5a (besides safe crux traverse). All the E3 bits are 5a. No pegs found as far as I was aware, no pegs placed. Nut key helped excavate potential gear cracks throughout.

D.W.

D. Williamson & A. Cooper 01/Jul/2023.

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Wolfman Jack

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Lundy)

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