Rockfax Description
An excellent and arduous route that feels like it is on the wrong cliff. Climb the technical slab (f6A+ problem) until the rock leans. Battle on to the prominent hollow where final desperate moves leftwards gain easy ground. Intense! © Rockfax
FA. Gary Gibson 1980.
Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List , All trad climbs at Birchen Edge , Ultimate E4 ticklist , The Froggatt to Black Rocks 3 Star Pilgrimage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , On Peak Rock , The Gary Gibson Stranglers Playlist , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List
User | Date | Notes | ||
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JR | 31 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: try a no.2 wallnut placed in the horizontal slot which i assume is where you are trying to place the small cams, now its safe! The cams higher up certainly dont rip! | ||
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βeta: try a no.2 wallnut placed in the horizontal slot which i assume is where you are trying to place the small cams, now its safe! The cams higher up certainly dont rip! |
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UKB Shark | 27 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: In reply to John Roberts Not totally safe. I tested the small friends at half height (twice) and they rip when shock loaded as the are not as good as they look when you place them due to soft rock (previous trashing ?) - but the thread stops you hitting the ground - just...(Serves me right for trying it in humid/warm conditions - well that's my excuse and I'm sticking to it) | ||
Show beta
βeta: In reply to John Roberts Not totally safe. I tested the small friends at half height (twice) and they rip when shock loaded as the are not as good as they look when you place them due to soft rock (previous trashing ?) - but the thread stops you hitting the ground - just...(Serves me right for trying it in humid/warm conditions - well that's my excuse and I'm sticking to it) |
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Boy | 27 Oct, 2003 |
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βeta: The move to gain the friend slot is much easier if you rock up facing left, rather than right as per the piccy in the chatsworth guide. | ||
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βeta: The move to gain the friend slot is much easier if you rock up facing left, rather than right as per the piccy in the chatsworth guide. |
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JR | 31 Mar, 2002 |
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βeta: Totally safe, apart from the boulder problem start. Very hard final move, easily falloffable. But excellent never the less. Might be wise to pre thread the thread on the right at the start. Very tricky to place otherwise, use your nutkey. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Totally safe, apart from the boulder problem start. Very hard final move, easily falloffable. But excellent never the less. Might be wise to pre thread the thread on the right at the start. Very tricky to place otherwise, use your nutkey. |
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Grade: E4 6a ***
(Stanage Popular)