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1126m.

Rockfax Description
1) From the starting col by the east peak, scramble easily along the crest and then down left past a tricky and exposed drop down over a hole in the ridge to a steeper and very exposed section.
2) Down-climb (or abseil) from a bolted abseil point to the continuation of the ridge. A further rocky section of ridge gains another abseil point.
3) A 20m abseil from here lands on some shelving, vegetated ledges near a large bay.
4) Scramble up a steep diagonal-weakness towards the crest of the ridge from where a long section of scrambling ends in a descent to a col with a distinct trio of vertical fins on its opposite side.
5) Walk up the slope next to the ridge-side fin and locate a line of closely spaced bolts on the smooth wall that lead up to its knife-edge top.
6) Climb the wall (4c) (or aid easily) to the knife-edge, then hand traverse this left (bolts) to a stance at a bolt.
7) Steep and slightly loose rock above (2+) gains another long section of ridge that once again ends in a steep descent to a broad col.
8) Ahead lies a long climb, past a number of false summits, to the true summit of the Bernia. Much of this final section is taken via the right flank of the ridge.
9) From the summit, descend the easy-angled ridge, past a short section with a hand-chain in place, to where the ridge starts to level out slightly and bends down to the right.
10) Keeping a close watch for the red dots, scramble left over the ridge and drop down and back left on rock and scree to a short scree-shoot.
11) Descend the scree-shoot and follow a path down to an old ruined fort. Continue along the path from the fort to a low wide col and take a good path that traverses the right side of a steep valley, around a spur to a track that leads easily back to the restaurant and parking. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
From the col to the west of the east summit, traverse the ridge from east to west. Fading red spots lead the way. The first section is exposed but bolted where it matters, ending with the only compulsory abseil. Other abseils can be easily avoided by scrambling down or around. Crux is a heavily bolted 4+. Probably best to take rock shoes just for this bit unless this is well within your grade. The second half of the ridge is mainly walking with a little bit of easy scrambling.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Costa Blanca: Top 50, Costa Blanca 25 by 2025, Adventure ticklist 2018, Magical mysterious and unusual beasts of rock & myth, Costa B

Feedback

User Date Notes
tom0129 28 Feb Show βeta
βeta: Ok in approach shoes, maybe not trainers for the 4+. Definitely watch out for the red dots on the decent, especially after the chain, very steep right and a slog back up the hill!
βeta?
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βeta: Ok in approach shoes, maybe not trainers for the 4+. Definitely watch out for the red dots on the decent, especially after the chain, very steep right and a slog back up the hill!
Olly P 29 Nov, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: For the 4+ pitch, approach shoes will be sufficient for most climbers who are leading 6a and up. There are a lot of bolts on the 4+ pitch; confident scramblers will probably not need to clip all of them - so 5 quickdraws would probably be plenty. For the approach, when driving in, take a good look at the ridge and identify key features to tick off as you walk in to help locate the start.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: For the 4+ pitch, approach shoes will be sufficient for most climbers who are leading 6a and up. There are a lot of bolts on the 4+ pitch; confident scramblers will probably not need to clip all of them - so 5 quickdraws would probably be plenty. For the approach, when driving in, take a good look at the ridge and identify key features to tick off as you walk in to help locate the start.
Michael Hellyer 28 Nov, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Allow an hour for the approach. Don't go through the cave. Can be done entirely in approach shoes, it seemed a waste to carry them for 3 moves.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Allow an hour for the approach. Don't go through the cave. Can be done entirely in approach shoes, it seemed a waste to carry them for 3 moves.
Leanne Smith 28 Nov, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: An epic route! Started at sunrise from the carpark, 45 mins hike in at a good pace. Chuffed to have soloed the route apart from the grade 4 pitch. Loved the abseils. We signed the book and finished the route at the summit col as sunset was just 2hrs away. A fantastic day out.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: An epic route! Started at sunrise from the carpark, 45 mins hike in at a good pace. Chuffed to have soloed the route apart from the grade 4 pitch. Loved the abseils. We signed the book and finished the route at the summit col as sunset was just 2hrs away. A fantastic day out.
Rob Griffiths 19 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Carried too much gear, only really need 7 or 8 quick draws and a couple of long slings. Route finding is tricky in a few places . Not worth carrying rock shoes for the 4c pitch it’s only three moves.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Carried too much gear, only really need 7 or 8 quick draws and a couple of long slings. Route finding is tricky in a few places . Not worth carrying rock shoes for the 4c pitch it’s only three moves.

Logged Ascents

412 users have logged this
49 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 50
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Soloed
Followed
Toproped
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set