Rockfax Description
105m. The right-hand corner, the line of the original Crimson Slabs route and somewhat of a breakthrough at the time, gives a classic corner pitch. Start in the grassy alcove, as for Djibangi.
1. 25m 4b Traverse right and a little up for 5m. Move back left into a short corner, then go slightly left again to easier ground leading up and right to the base of the corner.
2. 35m 4c Climb the corner to a hanging stance on a huge spike below an overhang. The initial crack is too wide for protection. A 50m abseil from here reaches the ground as long as you abseil down the slabs on the left (looking down) and not down the corner.
3. 45m Avoid the overhang by moving left below a bulge, then regain the grass groove above the bulge and climb more easily to the terrace.
FA T.W.Patey, J.Y.L.Hay, 4 Sep 1955 © Rockfax

Ticklists

Scottish Mid-Grade Multi-Pitch , In the footsteps of the Cairngorm Tigers , UK Classic Corners , UK Holiday Plans , Dad's Scottish Rock Underliners , Ultimate Scottish Rock

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